A Cal­cutta-born chef cur­ries favour with the Junc­tion crowd

Toronto Life - - Food & Drink -

Indi­li­cious 3358 Dun­das St. W., 416-769-4270

★★1/2

the junc­tion had no busi­ness get­ting a new In­dian restau­rant—it al­ready has four—but nev­er­the­less, Indi­li­cious is now open a few blocks west of the oth­ers in a space most re­cently oc­cu­pied by an un­suc­cess­ful pizza joint, and the neigh­bour­hood is bet­ter for it. Helm­ing the kitchen is Cal­cutta-born Su­joy Saha, who made a name for him­self at the now-closed In­dian Rice Fac­tory and as the open­ing chef for Tich, Mim­ico’s much-lauded In­dian spot. Cur­ries make up most of the menu here, which makes sense be­cause curry is Saha’s spe­cial­ity. Rich ro­gan josh, loaded with ten­der lamb in a tangy tomato sauce, is com­ple­mented by an order of sweet and co­conutty Madras chicken curry. Fluffy, saf­fron-flecked bas­mati rice does well as a base for it all—or even just with some spoon­fuls of Saha’s sweet-and-sour mixed pickle, which he should con­sider bot­tling and sell­ing.

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