A Calcutta-born chef curries favour with the Junction crowd
Indilicious 3358 Dundas St. W., 416-769-4270
the junction had no business getting a new Indian restaurant—it already has four—but nevertheless, Indilicious is now open a few blocks west of the others in a space most recently occupied by an unsuccessful pizza joint, and the neighbourhood is better for it. Helming the kitchen is Calcutta-born Sujoy Saha, who made a name for himself at the now-closed Indian Rice Factory and as the opening chef for Tich, Mimico’s much-lauded Indian spot. Curries make up most of the menu here, which makes sense because curry is Saha’s speciality. Rich rogan josh, loaded with tender lamb in a tangy tomato sauce, is complemented by an order of sweet and coconutty Madras chicken curry. Fluffy, saffron-flecked basmati rice does well as a base for it all—or even just with some spoonfuls of Saha’s sweet-and-sour mixed pickle, which he should consider bottling and selling.