West End. ....................... 24
A little beach town, a little downtown, a little forest, the West End never fails to deliver diversity. The geographic mix attracts students, seniors, and most newcomers. It’s also the historic home to the city’s gay community. Only an eclectic hodgepodge of neighbourhood restaurants and green spaces could cater to the offbeat demo
Shouty servers and a playful menu never overshadow the beautiful ingredients and disciplined technique on the plate at Kingyo ( 871 Denman St., 604-608-1677, Kingyoizakaya.ca), a West End room that sets the standard for Japanese tapas with friendly service, sakefuelled conviviality, and a diverse menu of delicious small plates. The sleek space, all lacquered wood and stone walls, conjures romantic images of feudal Japan. Dishes range from conventional (deep-fried tiger prawns dipped in spicy chili mayo) to bizarro (takoyaki-style seafood pâté with blue cheese, cabbage, red ginger, okonomi sauce, and bonito flakes).
The regionally focused menu and beachside patio make Raincity Grill ( 1193 Denman St., 604-6857337. Raincitygrill.com) a West End treasure. If you intend to eat in, go with confit of pork belly with seared Pacific scallops, pearl barley, pea tips, dill soubise, and apple-thyme foam. But if you fancy a spot on the beach, hit up the fish ’n’ chips takeout window for crispy, lightly battered halibut and fries, neatly tucked into recyclable packaging.
Despite the mod interior, Milano ( 849 Denman St., 604-681-1500. Milanocoffee.ca) is favoured by all-day coffee addicts who nurse espressos made from the 12-bean house blend roasted by owner and caffeine visionary Brian Turko. Summer brings an influx of newbies in search of Milano’s rare gelato flavours, like wildflower.
British Columbia’s wine scene is growing—and finding world recognition: Mission Hill just won world’s best wine under £15 with its pinot noir. Find that wine, and suggestions from an overwhelming number more, at stalwart Marquis Wine Cellars ( 1034 Davie St., 604-684-0445. Marquis-wines.com). Owner John Clerides is an outspoken, iconoclast expert.
Little Sister’s ( 1238 Davie St., 604-669-1753. Littlesisters.ca) has become an international legend for its decades-long struggles against censorship. Stop in to look for GLBTQ books, or focus on a prodigious and campy collections of buttons, T-shirts, and bumper stickers.
Stanley Park is a lush 1,000-acre oasis perched on a peninsula at the northwestern edge of downtown Vancouver. It would take days to view all the wonders, which include soaring old-growth fir trees, the vibrant First Nations totem-pole display at Brockton Point, nesting great blue herons, and Canada’s largest aquarium.
Head to Denman St. at Davie for the stretch of sand called English Bay. Each summer it becomes a crowded three-ring circus, complete with show-off rollerbladers, smooching couples, and noisy buskers. An ideal place to peoplewatch with an ice cream cone. Sunset Beach provides a quiet picnic haven with more sandy real estate than English Bay, which is perpetually overwhelmed with sprawling sunbathers. Bike the scenic stretch of seawall on a weekday rather than the weekend, when you can take in the view instead of focusing on dodging clear-skydazed pedestrians toting bulky picnic hampers.
The Labyrinth at the 100-year-old St. Paul’s church ( 1130 Jervis St., 604-685-6832. Stpaulsanglican.bc.ca) is a replica of the maze laid in the stone floor of the Chartres Cathedral in France. Parishioners and visitors use the winding, circular path as a walking form of meditation, and a peaceful way to escape the bustle.
Siwash Rock, Stanley Park
TASTE TH IS
Anchovies on Toast
ESPANA The Spanish think nothing of raising sophisticated snackies to their mouths while enjoying a glass of beer or wine at a local tapas bar. Now Vancouver has discovered the much-maligned little fish packs a seductive
flavour punch 1118 Denman St., 604-5584040. Espanarestaurant.ca