North Shore .................... 44
For most, the North Shore provides the misty mountain backdrop against which the city sparkles. But those who live mountainside know that life across the inlet, among the old-growth rainforest, is really that much greener. Parks abound. Hiking, biking, and skiing opportunities are endless. Luckily, so are the opportunities to refuel at eateries that know their stuff
La Régalade ( 2232 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-921-2228. Laregalade.com) plays the French card and excels. The blue cheese and pear tart makes a simple but elegant beginning, paired with frisée salad topped with crispy bacon and a soft-poached egg. Pâtés are rustic and flavourful, and come accompanied by Dijon mustard, housemade onion preserve, and a jar of cornichons. Try the beef bourguignon or braised lamb shank with apricots and couscous—both served en cocotte. The lemon tart is wonderful and complements the rich entrées. Owner Alain Rayé won Vancouver magazine’s chef of the year in 2013.
Gusto di Quattro ( 1 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver, 604-9244444. Quattrorestaurants.com) is the godfather of a mini-chain of Italian fine-dining joints. Classic starters like grilled bocconcini wrapped with prosciutto and radicchio set the stage for dependable mains. Pastas are consistently excellent—especially the handmade rotolo pasta roll stuffed with four cheeses—as is the service. The Italy-focused wine list might well be the best on the North Shore.
Far slicker than the counter- service kebab joints in Vancouver’s Little Iran, Zeitoon ( 1615 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver, 778-340-1500. Zeitoonrestaurant.ca) offers a flower-bedecked patio outside and inviting dark wood in. The menu doesn’t stray far from Persian favourites like garlicky, minty kashkeh bademjoon (eggplant dip), rich gormeh sabzi stew (turmeric beef and kidney beans with spinach, parsley, and cilantro gravy), and a long list of skewered meats, the best of which is the succulent torsh (tenderloin chunks marinated in pomegranate molasses). Finish with the golden saffron ice cream.
Savary Island Pie Company ( 1533 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-926-4021. Savaryislandpiecompany.com) serves up divine old-style pies that locals know are worth the slightly higher price. Come Thanksgiving, literally hundreds of pre-ordered pumpkin pies line the walls.
Residents hike the North Shore mountains just so they have an excuse to drop by Deep Cove’s Honey’s Doughnuts & Goodies ( 4373 Gallant Ave., 604-929-4988. Honeydoughnuts.com) for fat honey-dipped, chocolate-frosted doughnuts. The nearly spherical orbs of deep-fried dough are certainly dense. With their cakey weight comes staying power: they will surely outlast the fancy-doughnut trend.
The bountiful Village at Park Royal ( Taylor Way at Marine Dr., 604-925-9576. Shopparkroyal.com) takes an open-air approach, with more than 40 shops on hand (including Lululemon, New Age Nike, and Pinkberry)
to complement the several hundred (recently renovated) indoor options next door.
The gateway to North Vancouver, Lonsdale Quay Market ( 123 Carrie Cates Court. Lonsdalequay.com) gets its fair share of foot traffic. In addition to the folks fresh off the SeaBus, the shopping hub is home to 80 food vendors, artisanal specialty shops, and restaurants. Grab dinner to go or linger and dig deeper. Locally foraged mushrooms at West Coast Wild Foods, essential oils with healing properties at Vancouver wellness company Saje, smoked wild salmon jerky in a painted Haida box from the Salmon Shop—there is more than enough treasure to fill your reusable tote.
Thomas Haas, founder of Thomas Haas Chocolates ( 128–998 Harbourside Dr., North Vancouver, 604-924-1847. Thomashaas.com), is a fourth-generation pâtissier who makes a strong case for the dessert gene. Condense your indulgence and try his otherworldly chocolates: ganache with infusions of lemon and thyme, blue cornflower and bergamot, yuzu and Tahitian vanilla; drinking chocolates like bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup with Douglas fir-infused Chantilly.
It takes a heck of a lot to become Vancouver’s most visited natural feature. The wilderness paradise that is Grouse Mountain ( 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver, 604-980-9311. Grousemountain.com), 15 minutes from downtown, has something for everyone, pleasurable to masochistic, year-round. Hedonists opt for the glorious Skyride Gondola, North America’s largest aerial tram system, which takes visitors on a 1.6-kilometre (1-mile) jaunt 1.1 kilometres (3,700 feet) above sea level. The committed prefer to climb via the Grouse Grind, known as “Mother Nature’s StairMaster,” a thigh-scorching, vertical trek 850 metres (2,800 feet) straight up. Come winter, powder fiends head here for convenient skiing, snowboarding, and the hotter-than-ever snowshoeing scene.
Make like Man on a Wire and tickle your toes with a quick jaunt across Capilano Suspension Bridge 3735 Capilano Rd., North Vancouver, 604-985-7474. Capbridge.com) a 137-metre (450-foot) swaying footbridge strung 70 metres (230 feet) above the rushing Capilano River. Why? To brag about it, of course— ideally with a midair selfie.
Lonsdale Quay Market
North Shore hiking
View from Grouse Mountain
Cliffwalk at Capilano Suspension Bridge
TASTE TH IS
PIER 7 A hint of brine, a little
sweetness, and an unexpected green apple finish. Delivered at a two-storey boardwalk restaurant with raw bar in the historic Victory
Shipyards. 25 Wallace Mews, North Vancouver, 604-929-7437. Pierseven.ca