North Shore .................... 44

Vancouver Magazine - Best of the City 2016 - - Contents -

For most, the North Shore pro­vides the misty moun­tain back­drop against which the city sparkles. But those who live moun­tain­side know that life across the in­let, among the old-growth rain­for­est, is re­ally that much greener. Parks abound. Hik­ing, bik­ing, and ski­ing op­por­tu­ni­ties are end­less. Luck­ily, so are the op­por­tu­ni­ties to re­fuel at eater­ies that know their stuff

EAT

La Ré­galade ( 2232 Marine Dr., West Van­cou­ver, 604-921-2228. Lare­galade.com) plays the French card and ex­cels. The blue cheese and pear tart makes a sim­ple but el­e­gant be­gin­ning, paired with frisée salad topped with crispy ba­con and a soft-poached egg. Pâtés are rus­tic and flavour­ful, and come ac­com­pa­nied by Di­jon mus­tard, house­made onion pre­serve, and a jar of cor­ni­chons. Try the beef bour­guignon or braised lamb shank with apri­cots and cous­cous—both served en co­cotte. The le­mon tart is won­der­ful and com­ple­ments the rich en­trées. Owner Alain Rayé won Van­cou­ver mag­a­zine’s chef of the year in 2013.

Gusto di Quat­tro ( 1 Lons­dale Ave., North Van­cou­ver, 604-9244444. Qu­at­trorestau­rants.com) is the god­fa­ther of a mini-chain of Ital­ian fine-din­ing joints. Clas­sic starters like grilled boc­concini wrapped with pro­sciutto and radic­chio set the stage for de­pend­able mains. Pas­tas are con­sis­tently ex­cel­lent—es­pe­cially the hand­made ro­tolo pasta roll stuffed with four cheeses—as is the ser­vice. The Italy-fo­cused wine list might well be the best on the North Shore.

Far slicker than the counter- ser­vice ke­bab joints in Van­cou­ver’s Lit­tle Iran, Zeitoon ( 1615 Lons­dale Ave., North Van­cou­ver, 778-340-1500. Zeitoon­restau­rant.ca) of­fers a flower-bedecked pa­tio out­side and invit­ing dark wood in. The menu doesn’t stray far from Per­sian favourites like gar­licky, minty kashkeh bademjoon (egg­plant dip), rich gormeh sabzi stew (turmeric beef and kid­ney beans with spinach, pars­ley, and cilantro gravy), and a long list of skew­ered meats, the best of which is the suc­cu­lent torsh (ten­der­loin chunks mar­i­nated in pomegranate mo­lasses). Fin­ish with the golden saf­fron ice cream.

Savary Is­land Pie Company ( 1533 Marine Dr., West Van­cou­ver, 604-926-4021. Savary­is­land­piecom­pany.com) serves up divine old-style pies that lo­cals know are worth the slightly higher price. Come Thanks­giv­ing, lit­er­ally hun­dreds of pre-or­dered pump­kin pies line the walls.

Res­i­dents hike the North Shore moun­tains just so they have an ex­cuse to drop by Deep Cove’s Honey’s Dough­nuts & Good­ies ( 4373 Gal­lant Ave., 604-929-4988. Honey­dough­nuts.com) for fat honey-dipped, choco­late-frosted dough­nuts. The nearly spher­i­cal orbs of deep-fried dough are cer­tainly dense. With their cakey weight comes stay­ing power: they will surely out­last the fancy-dough­nut trend.

SHOP

The boun­ti­ful Vil­lage at Park Royal ( Tay­lor Way at Marine Dr., 604-925-9576. Shop­parkroyal.com) takes an open-air ap­proach, with more than 40 shops on hand (in­clud­ing Lu­l­ule­mon, New Age Nike, and Pinkberry)

to com­ple­ment the sev­eral hun­dred (re­cently ren­o­vated) in­door op­tions next door.

The gate­way to North Van­cou­ver, Lons­dale Quay Mar­ket ( 123 Car­rie Cates Court. Lons­dale­quay.com) gets its fair share of foot traf­fic. In ad­di­tion to the folks fresh off the SeaBus, the shop­ping hub is home to 80 food ven­dors, ar­ti­sanal spe­cialty shops, and restau­rants. Grab din­ner to go or linger and dig deeper. Lo­cally for­aged mush­rooms at West Coast Wild Foods, es­sen­tial oils with heal­ing prop­er­ties at Van­cou­ver well­ness company Saje, smoked wild sal­mon jerky in a painted Haida box from the Sal­mon Shop—there is more than enough trea­sure to fill your re­us­able tote.

Thomas Haas, founder of Thomas Haas Cho­co­lates ( 128–998 Har­bour­side Dr., North Van­cou­ver, 604-924-1847. Thomashaas.com), is a fourth-gen­er­a­tion pâtissier who makes a strong case for the dessert gene. Con­dense your in­dul­gence and try his oth­er­worldly cho­co­lates: ganache with in­fu­sions of le­mon and thyme, blue corn­flower and berg­amot, yuzu and Tahi­tian vanilla; drink­ing cho­co­lates like bour­bon bar­rel-aged maple syrup with Dou­glas fir-in­fused Chan­tilly.

EX­PLORE

It takes a heck of a lot to be­come Van­cou­ver’s most vis­ited nat­u­ral fea­ture. The wilder­ness par­adise that is Grouse Moun­tain ( 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Van­cou­ver, 604-980-9311. Grousemoun­tain.com), 15 min­utes from down­town, has some­thing for ev­ery­one, plea­sur­able to masochis­tic, year-round. He­do­nists opt for the glo­ri­ous Skyride Gon­dola, North Amer­ica’s largest aerial tram sys­tem, which takes vis­i­tors on a 1.6-kilo­me­tre (1-mile) jaunt 1.1 kilo­me­tres (3,700 feet) above sea level. The com­mit­ted pre­fer to climb via the Grouse Grind, known as “Mother Na­ture’s StairMaster,” a thigh-scorch­ing, ver­ti­cal trek 850 me­tres (2,800 feet) straight up. Come win­ter, pow­der fiends head here for con­ve­nient ski­ing, snow­board­ing, and the hot­ter-than-ever snow­shoe­ing scene.

Make like Man on a Wire and tickle your toes with a quick jaunt across Capi­lano Sus­pen­sion Bridge 3735 Capi­lano Rd., North Van­cou­ver, 604-985-7474. Cap­bridge.com) a 137-me­tre (450-foot) sway­ing foot­bridge strung 70 me­tres (230 feet) above the rush­ing Capi­lano River. Why? To brag about it, of course— ide­ally with a midair selfie.

Lons­dale Quay Mar­ket

North Shore hik­ing

Zeitoon

Thomas Haas

View from Grouse Moun­tain

Clif­fwalk at Capi­lano Sus­pen­sion Bridge

Grouse Grind

TASTE TH IS

B.C. Oys­ters

PIER 7 A hint of brine, a lit­tle

sweet­ness, and an un­ex­pected green ap­ple fin­ish. De­liv­ered at a two-storey board­walk restau­rant with raw bar in the his­toric Vic­tory

Ship­yards. 25 Wal­lace Mews, North Van­cou­ver, 604-929-7437. Pier­se­ven.ca

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