LATE NIGHT

Village Post - - Food -

#34 Juan­moto

Cold Tea was nearly a self-par­ody sta­ple of Kens­ing­ton Mar­ket: a dingy bar with a semi-se­cret en­trance and loud in­dus­try pa­tio cook­outs in the sum­mer. The own­ers, hav­ing out­grown the le­gal headaches of the tail­gate party at­mos­phere, have trans­formed the space into a slick restau­rant with the req­ui­site high chairs and neon lights. Part­ner­ing with restau­ra­teur Leemo Han (Han­moto, Pinky’s Ca Phe), the bar now serves up Han’s brand of el­e­gantly de­li­cious messes — brined, grilled and fried wings cov­ered in tart green goop, vari­a­tions on the sloppy joe and McChicken, ice cream sand­wiches rolled in tiny, puffy rice balls. Regulars have no need to worry. Cold Tea hasn’t got­ten too fancy for their sum­mer Sun­day bar­be­cue se­ries.

#5 King Place

Won­der­fully un­healthy Teriyak­i­tori wings This flu­o­res­cent-lit room lo­cated at a chaotic in­ter­sec­tion is not a great place to sit down for a ro­man­tic meal, but the Pak­istani cui­sine is out­stand­ing and ideally suited for take­out or de­liv­ery. Owner Me­hood Meer (known as Mr. Butt) has a deft hand with gin­ger, co­rian­der, but­ter, cumin and fenu­greek. When some­thing is spicy here, like the ni­hari beef, it is fore­head-mop­ping spicy. But­tery naan is cooked fresh to or­der. De­spite the wide va­ri­ety of slow-cooked meats, no two dishes taste the same: each is a thought­ful cal­i­bra­tion of flavours with a po­tency barely con­tained by Sty­ro­foam con­tain­ers, their magic re­leased in the form of spiced steam as you re­move the lids at home.

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