Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai Soup Dumplings)
If you’ve ever been out for dim sum, you’ve likely tried xiao long bao—soup dumplings filled with a nugget of seasoned pork and a burst of warm broth. It’s a staple of Shanghai cuisine and something most people don’t make at home, because it’s no easy feat to get soup inside a dumpling. Except, that is, when the stock is chilled and gelled—add a cube or two of flavourful chicken gel as you fill your dumpling (the ham or sausage alongside adds flavour), and it reliquefies as the dumplings steam. It’s like molecular gastronomy before that was even a thing.
Stock
Bones from 1 roasted chicken 1 small carrot, cut into chunks A few slices of ham or Asian-style cured sausage (optional) A few sprigs of cilantro or parsley 1 green onion Big pinch salt 1 tbsp plain gelatin
Dumplings
1 lb ground pork ¼ cup chopped cilantro (stems too) 2 green onions, finely chopped 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsp grated fresh ginger 1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely crushed 2 tsp brown sugar 1 tsp sriracha or garlic- chili paste (optional) 1 pkg wonton wrappers, round or square
Dipping Sauce
Thinly sliced fresh ginger Dark soy sauce Rice vinegar Pinch dried red chili flakes
1. Combine all stock ingredients except gelatin in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to a simmer over low heat. Cook for 30 to 45 minutes, or until you have a rich-tasting stock. Strain through a sieve or colander and pour stock back into the saucepan. Sprinkle gelatin overtop (you should have about 2 cups of stock—reduce the gelatin if you have less) and let sit for a minute to soften. Return to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the gelatin completely. Pour into a loaf pan or other dish and refrigerate until firm.
2. To make filling, combine ground pork, cilantro, green onions, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, brown sugar and sriracha, mixing gently with your hands.
3. To assemble dumplings, put some water in a small dish and find a clean work surface, like a chopping board. Cut gelled stock into small ⅓-inch squares. Place a few dumpling wrappers at a time on the board, and brush around edges with water using a pastry brush or your finger. Place a small spoonful of pork mixture in the middle of each wrapper, along with a square or two of gelled stock. Gather dumpling up into the palm of your hand and pleat it all around the edges using your thumb, twisting in a small knot at the top to close.
4. As they’re assembled, place on a parchment-lined sheet and cover with a tea towel. Steam over simmering water in a bamboo steamer basket or on a layer of parchment, cheesecloth or cabbage leaves for 12 to 15 minutes or until cooked through.
Stock Tip
The filling and stock for xiao long bao can be made up to three days in advance and refrigerated; fill them just before steaming.