There is a dish in Emilia near Mo­dena called borlenghi that’s not done any­where else. As in, it’s not even known or heard of out­side that re­gion. And it’s maybe the best ‘fast food’ I’ve ever had. The only way to de­scribe borlenghi (the plu­ral, which is key, be­cause no one has ever eaten just one) is a cross be­tween a crepe and a dosa. Thin­ner and more del­i­cate than ei­ther, it makes more mess than the flaki­est pas­try. The tra­di­tional fill­ing is ground pro­sciutto fat and parmi­giano-reg­giano (with a lit­tle fresh rose­mary thrown in). It is made in two ways. One is to pour the bat­ter very thinly in hot cop­per pan (sim­i­lar to mak­ing crepes), and the other method my pre­ferred, for its paper-like thin­ness) is to spray the hot pan with the bat­ter, us­ing a wa­ter bot­tle or mist gun. As it crisps up, it’s flipped over, and be­fore it’s fin­ished cook­ing, the pro­sciutto/parmi­giano mix­ture is lightly spread on top. It’s folded three or four times and eaten like this.”


6½ to 7½ cups wa­ter ½ cups “00” flour egg 4 tbsp mild olive oil


200 g lardo 100 g pancetta clove gar­lic sprig rose­mary With a whisk or hand blender, mix all bat­ter in­gre­di­ents un­til smooth and leave to rest in fridge for a few hours. The bat­ter should be quite runny/loose. Loose enough to spray from a wa­ter spray bot­tle. To make a tra­di­tional fill­ing, grind all fill­ing in­gre­di­ents to­gether into a paste.

Put bat­ter in a spray bot­tle. Set a thick-bot­tomed cop­per or cast iron pan on medium heat. Once pan is hot, spray bat­ter mix­ture to cover pan. When bat­ter is slightly browned, flip and con­tinue cook­ing un­til crispy. Quickly spread the fill­ing very thinly over­top. Fold the bor­lengho in half, then again in half, and again.

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