Where Calgary - - DINING - —G.R.

With freshly-made pas­tas and piz­zas cooked to per­fec­tion in the wood oven, you might think of skip­ping to the main event. That would be a mis­take though, as the beef and veal meat­balls starter should not be over­looked. They're ap­pro­pri­ately beefy yet ten­der, smoth­ered in a nice sauce, and then spiked with the ad­di­tion of spicy jalapenos. A car­pet of pa­per-thin Parmi­gian­ino cheese coats them all, while scat­tered sun-dried olives add a touch of rich salti­ness (page 48).

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