From the minty green exterior, pink-tinged décor—and lack of the otherwise standard butter chicken, Calcutta Cricket Club has set itself apart from most Indian restaurants. That’s not to say tradition has no place here. It’s peppered on the menu, in the form of dishes made from family recipes passed down over generations, like the Parsi prawns and lamb kosha mangsho. Bengali cuisine is the focus with a few large-format dishes, such as a bison biryani that perfumes the room with aromatic spices when its pastry lid is cracked open. Street food favourite kathi rolls —meats, herbs and sauce rolled up in a flaky paratha—are a must-order, as is the chili chicken, which is double-fried and tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce, topped with fiery green chilis (page 52).