Where Calgary - - DINING -

From the out­side, the house on the cor­ner gives away no se­crets. Be­yond the stretch of break­fast joints Ed­mon­ton Trail is known for, the black-shin­gled build­ing with trees out front ap­pears like many of the homes in the neigh­bour­hood. In­side, though, all se­crets are re­vealed—start­ing with the char­cu­terie case, which greets guests as they ar­rive. Tav­er­netta is a mod­ern take on a tra­di­tional Ital­ian tav­ern. Re­flect­ing re­gions across Italy from Alba to Veneto, dishes range from spei­dini (food on skew­ers) to sea­sonal sal­ads and manda­tory pas­tas—hand­made, of course. Con­sider the pil­lowy gnoc­chi or the sausage­filled bun­dles of ca­son­sei pasta set off by browned but­ter. And don’t skip past the pork meat­balls, ten­der and coated in a deeply flavour­ful tomato sauce. The house’s main floor serves as the din­ing room, fram­ing the small kitchen at the cen­tre where chefs sauté, grill and as­sem­ble the dishes, cre­at­ing aro­mas that make it hard to con­cen­trate on con­ver­sa­tion while wait­ing for food to ar­rive

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