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The din­ner menu at this mid­town bistro lists pris­tine French clas­sics: scal­lops en croute poached in white wine, duck con­fit with ba­con and sautéed en­dive, boeuf bour­guignon with pearl onions in a red wine jus. The dessert card, how­ever, is Magritte-in­spired ma­nia. Pas­try chef Calvin Wat makes sculp­tural sweets that look like lemons, cher­ries, and grape­fruits. In­side, there’s a Rus­sian nest­ing doll’s worth of lay­ers: the herbal, punchy Granny Smith is a sous-vide ap­ple coated in lime mousse, dill-lime coulis, and a gleam­ing Valhrona choco­late shell. 623 Mount Pleas­ant Rd., birch­

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