TRICK OF THE IRISH? IT’S GREAT INGREDIENTS
Lucky country blessed with fresh produce, fertile soil and the bounty of the sea
“There’s no question about it. You can eat brilliantly in Ireland now,” Darina Allen says. “I think there’s a realization here in Ireland, and not before time, that we are so blessed by nature.” Surrounded by the sea, Ireland makes fish and shellfish a big part of its cuisine. Rich soil, a long growing season, an established farmers’ market movement (which Allen founded in the mid-1990s), and creative chefs and food producers create a vibrant culinary scene. The Irish food ambassador is a chef, food writer and owner of the world-renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School in Cork, which attracts students from 50 countries and counting.
And in her 16th book, Grow, Cook, Nourish: A Kitchen Garden Companion in 500 Recipes (Kyle Books), Allen hopes to inspire readers to take back control of their food by growing some of their own.
For St. Patrick’s Day, Allen often turns to a traditional Irish dish — boiled back bacon and cabbage smothered in parsley sauce. “I love to do bacon, cabbage and parsley sauce with some champ, which is an Irish potato dish with mashed potato, hot milk, scallions and a big lump of butter melting into it,” she says. “And then, normally we would have the first of our rhubarb and we would make a lovely rhubarb dessert.” Allen recommends serving her carrageen (Irish) moss pudding with softly whipped cream and sweet cicely or angelica-scented rhubarb compote. Recipes are excerpted from Grow, Cook, Nourish by Darina Allen (Kyle Books, 2017).
EMIGRANT’S SODA BREAD
Makes: 1 loaf
3 2/3 cups (910 mL) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
1-2 tbsp (15-30 mL) granulated sugar
1tsp(5mL)salt
1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda, sifted
1-2 tsp (5-10 mL) caraway seeds
1/2-3/4 cup (125-180 mL) golden raisins, raisins, or currants
1 1/4 (310 mL) cups sour milk or buttermilk
1 large organic egg (optional — you may not need all the milk if you use the egg)
1. Preheat the oven to 450 F (230 C).
2. Sift the dry ingredients into a bowl, add the caraway seeds and fruit, and mix well. Make a well in the centre and pour most of the milk in at once with the egg (if using).
3. Using one hand, mix in the flour from the sides of the bowl, adding more milk if necessary. The dough should be softish, not too wet and sticky. When it all comes together, turn it onto a floured surface and knead it lightly for a few seconds, just enough to tidy it up. Pat the dough into a round about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) deep and cut a deep cross on it.
4. Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 400 F (200 C) and continue to cook for about 30 minutes. If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the loaf: if it is cooked, it will sound hollow.
5. Serve freshly baked, cut into thick slices and generously slathered with butter.