When pop cul­ture meets fash­ion, de­sign­ers re­spond

Winnipeg Free Press - Section G - - ENTERTAINMENT - By Lau­ren La Rose

TORONTO — Filmgoers are buzzing about the up­com­ing re­lease of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby, while fash­ion­istas are clam­our­ing to re­cre­ate the daz­zling pe­riod cos­tumes that colour the movie.

Well be­fore the movie’s orig­i­nal re­lease date last Christ­mas, run­ways were rife with styles chan­nelling in­spi­ra­tion from the Roar­ing ’20s. De­sign­ers in­clud­ing Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lau­ren were seen em­brac­ing the es­thetic, and items such as cloche hats, tiered skirts and drop-waist dresses re-emerged.

Gatsby cos­tume de­signer Cather­ine Martin worked in tan­dem with Brooks Broth­ers, which man­u­fac­tured more than 500 ensem­bles for the film, min­ing the ar­chive of the menswear brand for de­signs from which many of the movie’s 1920s items were based. Tuxe­dos, sport coats, linen suits, boater hats and wingtip brogues are among the de­signs donned by Jay Gatsby and Co. in the film.

The creative col­lab­o­ra­tion has led to a col­lec­tion in­spired by the op­u­lent tale, the lat­est in a line of stylish pe­riod dra­mas and frothy guilty plea­sures whose fash­ions have been cov­eted by con­sumers and in­spired de­sign­ers.

“The whole idea be­hind this cap­sule col­lec­tion is to take the era in­spi­ra­tion and re­ally make it very mod­ern for to­day,” Deepak Cho­pra of Brooks Broth­ers said of the brand’s limited-edi­tion Gatsby line.

Sig­na­ture style touches in­dica­tive of the era such as peaked lapels, rounded-col­lar shirts, re­gatta blaz­ers and art deco-in­spired pat­terns are present. But Cho­pra said there are mod­i­fi­ca­tions in keep­ing with a con­tem­po­rary take on the ’20s, in­clud­ing lighter-weight linens used in ivory-hued and pin­striped suits, a mid-rise fit on pants and a mod­ern­ized sil­hou­ette for suits.

Well be­fore the medium of TV even ex­isted and film was in its in­fancy, view­ers have been mim­ick­ing styles donned by stars orig­i­nally fea­tured on­screen.

“His­tor­i­cally, the elites of pre-World War I were so­cialites and aris­to­crats. But af­ter the ’20s, it starts to be movie stars. It starts to be the celebrity cul­ture in terms of Hol­ly­wood glam­our,” said Ali­son Matthews David, as­sis­tant pro­fes­sor in the school of fash­ion at Ry­er­son Univer­sity.

“Young women and young men would aspire to look like stars they saw on the sil­ver screen — even in a pe­riod like the De­pres­sion.”

Matthews David re­called the 1932 drama Letty Lyn­ton and the famed gown worn by Joan Craw­ford as the film’s tit­u­lar char­ac­ter. The Adrian-de­signed white cot­ton or­gandy frock with its elab­o­rate, fan­ci­fully ruf­fled sleeves be­came widely copied, with some 500,000 repli­cas sold at U.S. depart­ment store Macy’s.

WARNER BROS.

View­ers can em­u­late the debonair, dar­ing ’20s styles sported by The Great Gatsby’s Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mul­li­gan and Joel Edger­ton (from left).

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