Nat­u­ral stone, quartz head up favourites for kitchens and baths

Winnipeg Free Press - Section G - - HOMES - By Leanne Brownoff

QWe are se­lect­ing new coun­ter­tops for our kitchen and bath­room. I def­i­nitely want gran­ite in the kitchen, but I’m think­ing of a less costly op­tion for the bath­rooms (our master bath, a pow­der room and an up­stairs full bath­room for the kids). What are your thoughts on quartz ver­sus gran­ite, and what do you sug­gest for the bath­rooms? An­swer: You are wise to re­search your op­tions for coun­ter­tops as kitchens and bath­rooms are typ­i­cally the rooms that ex­pe­ri­ence the most ar­chi­tec­tural ad­vance­ments — when it comes to de­sign and tech­nol­ogy — than any other room in the house. Whether it is floor­ing, light­ing, cabi­netry, sur­faces, or fix­tures, th­ese rooms con­tin­u­ously chal­lenge de­sign­ers and man­u­fac­tur­ers to de­velop the next wave of func­tional style. There are sev­eral op­tions to con­sider: Solid sur­faces are durable man-made prod­ucts that are com­posed of acrylic poly­mers. Th­ese ho­mo­ge­neous sur­faces come in a va­ri­ety of colours and pat­terns that can be ma­chined to pro­vide a great num­ber of pro­file edges, mak­ing their de­sign more unique. Co­rian is a ma­jor name in the in­dus­try. Although solid sur­faces are ex­tremely stain resistant, they can be dam­aged with ex­treme heat, and while this sur­face is prac­ti­cal, it isn’t ter­ri­bly ex­cit­ing to look at. quartz coun­ters are com­prised of quartz crys­tal com­bined with bind­ing agents and colours. The re­sults pro­vide a beau­ti­ful prod­uct with in­creased dura­bil­ity. Quartz tends to be less costly than nat­u­ral stone, while im­prov­ing on some of its lim­i­ta­tions such as acid etch­ing and dark pig­ment stain­ing. cur­rently rib­bon grain ma­hogany and look rather dull. Thanks. An­swer: Con­grat­u­la­tions on your new baby. This is an ex­cit­ing time for you. You can def­i­nitely add some ar­chi­tec­tural de­tail­ing to the doors, but be pre­pared to re­move them from their hinges first. Since it’s likely a hol­low-core door, you shouldn’t nail the frame to it. You will in­stead need to ad­here the frame mould­ing with glue, and that will re­quire you to lay the door flat so that the pieces can set prop­erly. If you get your frame cut and bev­elled at a wood fin­ish­ing store, you can ad­here the pieces with heavy-duty, dou­ble-sided tape (look for it at your lo­cal hard­ware store). Rough up your sur­face so the tape can ad­here well. Po­si­tion your frame on the door and mark with a pen­cil. Place the tape on the frame and press onto your door. Add each sec­tion un­til com­plete. Ap­ply paintable caulk­ing to the edge to seal it to the door and fill in any gaps. Us­ing your fin­ger or a damp cloth, smooth out the caulk­ing edge. Let dry and paint the door a colour that works with your nurs­ery choice. This process can be ap­plied to the bi-fold doors as well. Or con­sider re­mov­ing the doors and re­plac­ing them with a cur­tain rod and draperies in a fun fab­ric. This adds per­son­al­ity to the room while elim­i­nat­ing pinched fin­gers later. Leanne Brownoff is an Ed­mon­ton business con­sul­tant with vast ex­pe­ri­ence in in­te­rior de­sign.

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