Hikes loaded with stun­ning sites

Winnipeg Free Press - Section G - - DESTINATIONS - By David A. Tay­lor

NOVA SCO­TIA — When my wife and I told peo­ple we were go­ing to Nova Sco­tia to hike, many seemed mys­ti­fied. The prov­ince is not very big, and they en­vi­sioned a placid land­scape on a penin­sula bet­ter known for high tides than high hills. My own men­tal pic­tures came from a vi­brant art ex­hibit by the Cana­dian co­hort of painters known as the Group of Seven, whose works fea­tured dra­matic wilder­ness scenes in vivid colours. (I’d been there once when I was 4 but had no mem­o­ries of it.) Nova Sco­tia turned out to of­fer us a a stun­ning va­ri­ety of walks, fea­tur­ing huge, sweep­ing views. Th­ese me­an­ders came with an un­ex­pected bonus — sur­pris­ingly per­sonal con­ver­sa­tions with com­plete strangers. Be­sides be­ing beau­ti­ful, it seems, this was the kind of place where pay­ing for straw­ber­ries could get you 20 min­utes of other peo­ple’s fam­ily his­to­ries, favourite cheeses (home­made sting­ing-net­tle gouda!) and per­sonal habits. It was a bril­liant, cloud­less sum­mer day when friends met us at the Hal­i­fax air­port. We drove two hours to­wards the Bay of Fundy through the ru­ral western stretch, a re­gion quilted with fields of dense blue­berry bushes and dap­pled with spikes of vi­o­let and rust-coloured grasses and green-grey spruces. The land­scape un­du­lated into the dis­tance — no dra­matic peaks but plenty of to­po­graphic swoops and po­ten­tial panora­mas. Ar­riv­ing in the vil­lage of Fox River, we set­tled into our va­ca­tion rental, a con­verted old school­house. (Our friends owned a share of the place.) The two-storey, 3,500-square-foot house had been ren­o­vated with large groups in mind. From the out­side, it could pass for an 1890s-era church, but once in­side you found, on the first floor, four bed­rooms, two bath­rooms and a shared lounge area. Up­stairs, the chef-qual­ity kitchen and liv­ing area formed a large, sun­filled great room per­fect for mak­ing fam­ily meals, with huge win­dows in three di­rec­tions. One wall of win­dows looked out over the low bushes of blue­berry fields stretch­ing to the bay. In the op­po­site di­rec­tion, we had a panorama of where the lone road sliced through town and conif­er­ous for­est stood be­yond. My wife and I quickly fell into a morn­ing rou­tine: wake up early (day­light glows about 5 a.m. in July and lasts past 10 p.m.), make coffee, take mug down the dirt road to the shore. Along the way, ad­mire blue­berry fields. When we reached the shore, we’d con­tinue across the rounded stones to the wa­ter’s edge and dip our toes into the icy tide. Then, we’d walk

The Cape d’Or Light­house, which is lo­cated on the Bay of Fundy.

The sky­line of Fox River vil­lage.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.