Fiji is the proverbial sweetshop for divers, with a mindboggling selection of stellar spots. The reefs are particularly celebrated though and, in contrast to that sweetshop, the riot of colour is very much all natural. Rampant soft coral growth is the key and nowhere is more prolific than Somosomo Strait, between Vanua Levu and the much smaller island of Taveuni. The islands were ravaged by Cyclone Winston in 2016 but underwater, the damage was quite localised. Today, most of the famous walls of white, purple and yellow are in robust health again and any dollars you spend enjoying them will be much appreciated as the area’s infrastructure bounces back. The vibrancy and diversity are the product of currents that flush an unending supply of nutrients past the islands. These are such that beginner divers cluster in areas closer to the Taveuni resorts on the south side of the strait. This area is somewhat storm-damaged but is fine for improving skills before you venture across to the Vanua Levu coast where there is an entire shopping list of must-do dives. On rest days, turn your sights inland to the Bouma National Heritage Park, a hilly, lushly vegetated reserve where the accuracy of Taveuni’s name as the ‘Garden Island’ becomes clear. Bird-lovers will especially prize the vivid species readily encountered on the trails here. Take your pick from a number of resorts, all with dive operations, though the Garden Island Resort, www.gardenislandresort.com, comes highly rated by many.