Corks pop as Champagne becomes chic
World’s second-largest economy lags in consumption of the luxury beverage, but insiders see high market potential
Champagne, a 300-year-old delicacy from the eponymous French region, is growing in popularity in China as it resonates with people’s pursuit for better, modern lifestyles, experts said.
Back in the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) during the reign of Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908), the first bottle of Champagne was brought to China by a French ambassador. Cixi was reportedly startled when the cork suddenly popped off and the liquid sprayed out.
“Nowadays more Chinese people are looking for ways to enjoy life, they now have a stronger inclination to spend money on delicious food and good wine,” said Wang Wei, head of the French Champagne Bureau in China.
According to a geographical indication document for the protection of Champagne that was released in China in 1989, “only Champagne produced in Champagne of France can be called Champagne”.
“Any others are called sparkling wine,” Wang added.
In this sense, the annual production of Champagne is 300 million bottles. Among those, about 1.3 million bottles were exported to China last year, with an average price per bottle ranging from 300 yuan ($46) to 1,000 yuan, according to Wang.
The rare resources and high costs involved in the complicated production process have made this product a medium to highend commodity, or even a luxury, not only in China, but in France too, she said.
Francois Blanc, counsel for agriculture in the French embassy in China, said that Champagne has now developed a range of products for all customer categories: from fairly affordable bottles of good quality, to very expensive ones, especially old bottles that are stored underground for years.
However, Champagne might soon choose a new way to penetrate a consumer market dominated by an up-and-coming younger generation in China, who are more willing to buy expensive items to celebrate something important, according to Wang.
“Champagne represents a kind of lifestyle in sharing joy and happiness, and to mark precious moments of life with a sense of ritual,” Wang said.
Similarly to how Chinese people like to serve a fish dish on the eve of Spring Festival, it is a tradition for French people to open a bottle of Champagne before a banquet, Wang said.
“They all represent the same wish for good luck and a better life.”
For special occasions
In its home country, France, Champagne is typically a wine for special occasions, such as birthdays, weddings, Christmas and so on. It is associated with festive occasions with a group of people, Blanc said.
He added it has the ability to create a link between people from various countries.
“Once having joined a table and opened a bottle, consensus is easily reached upon the enjoyment of drinking such a tasty product,” he said.
Li Demei, a wine expert from Beijing University of Agriculture, agreed.
“Its unique bubbles and popping sounds when opening the bottle can form a very impressive atmosphere.”
Now, Champagne is common at ceremonies or anniversaries in China, parties or dinners organized by high-level groups, as well as in bars and restaurants, according to Wang.
Since more people are beginning to learn about the product and are becoming increasingly interested, it will have great potential in the Chinese market, she said.
The bureau where Wang works is studying the food match between Champagne and traditional Chinese cuisine.
“We have found the light favor of Cantonese cuisine is suited to white Champagne. And rose Champagne can be a perfect match for Beijing duck, which has a crispy and greasy taste.”
Li added Champagne has a very broad scope in terms of food matches because its acidity and bubbles clean the mouth well.
Blanc noted that the Champagne market in the Chinese mainland has been growing slower compared with the demand for other French food products.
Even Hong Kong is a larger market than the mainland, with 2016 sales reaching 71 million euros ($85 million).
In the rest of China, sales only reached 21 million euros, according to Blanc.
He said China is lagging behind its market potential, especially when compared to the United States, the top export market at 540 million euros, and the United Kingdom, the second-largest export market with 440 million euros.
That’s partly because the public lack basic knowledge about Champagne, including how to select, enjoy and store it, and they still consider the product a luxury for the rich only, Wang added.
Blanc said the future of Champagne in China is promising.
It may be taking a bit of time, but the very fast improvement in Chinese people’s knowledge of Champagne, as well as the experience of Chinese tourists in the Champagne area will contribute to its development, he said.
“The change in consumer habits will play its role,” Blanc said.
He explained Champagne is usually served with dessert, with some pastries for example. Chinese consumers do not often have such deserts yet, Blanc said, but they can develop the taste for desserts along with Champagne.