EARN­ING THEIR STRIPES

The lat­est looks in menswear are all about lines, top de­sign­ers are say­ing in­Mi­lan.

China Daily (Latin America Weekly) - - Life -

The line, long un­der-rated as one of ge­om­e­try’s most ba­sic form, is get­ting a lot of ex­po­sure on the Mi­lan menswear run­way. De­sign­ers are em­brac­ing stripes of, well, ev­ery stripe, an­dus­ingth­e­mas ametaphor of sorts to cleanupthe line, that is the sil­hou­ettes, of the col­lec­tions pre­sented dur­ingMi­lan Fash­ionWeek, on June 23.

So for next sum­mer, men can ex­pect to be wear­ing stripes, both fine and bold, along with pul­sat­ing, ra­di­at­ing and curv­ing lines, as well as sim­ple checks, all cre­at­ing op­ti­cal ef­fects that bely the clean­ness of some of the de­signs. Lines are also be­ing worked into the fab­ric, in chunky tex­tiles that cre­ate an ar­chi­tec­ture of their own.

Gior­gio Ar­mani says he has done a whole­sale cleanup of looks for his Em­po­rio Ar­mani collection for next spring and sum­mer.

The pre­dom­i­nantly black-and-white collection has a strong graphic com­po­nent, with lines trans­mit­ting a sense of en­ergy from the gar­ment, from steady pulses, webs and waves up to full black and white bold stripes. Color makes cameos in con­trast­ing stripes of turquoise and aqua-green.

“Af­ter years of do­ing a lit­tle bit of ev­ery­thing, a melange, flo­rals and eth­nic­ity, fi­nally a lit­tle clean­ing,” Ar­mani says.

The sil­hou­ette is loose and easy, with pleated trousers or draw­string ath­letic pants. Silk and cot­ton shirts loosely cling the frame, and T-shirts, worn un­der coats, are soft.

The 80-year-old fam­ily-run Canali fash­ion house is tak­ing a fresh di­rec­tion with a new cap­sule collection by young Mi­lan de­signer An­drea Pom­pilio.

Since be­ing tapped to show his brand at Gior­gio Ar­mani’s the­ater one year ago, the up-and-comer with 20-years’ ex­pe­ri­ence in fash­ion, in­clud­ing a stint at Prada, has been fully em­braced by the fash­ion world.

Pom­pilio says both his own brand, which showed on June 21, and the Canali la­bel de­part from the same place: “Iam­com­pletely ob­sessed with menswear and es­pe­cially iconic pieces of the wardrobe.”

For Canali, Pom­pilio tin­kered a bit with the pro­por­tions of the look, crop­ping the trousers, mak­ing cuffs a bit deeper, the jack­ets a bit shorter. The looks also fea­ture flashes of color, like or­ange, yel­low and pea­cock looks, and pairs for­mal el­e­ments, like a dou­ble-breasted suit, with sneak­ers.

He also in­cludes pat­terns on silky short and checked suits, fin­ish­ing the looks with eye­wear in­stead of sun­glasses and full­brimmed sum­mer hats.

“You see a lot of fresh in­puts for the brand, but ac­tu­ally theDNAis ex­actly the same,” he says back­stage.

The Gucci man for next sum­mer has earned his stripes, along with golden but­tons, epaulets, in­signias and other trap­pings of a mariner’s life.

The collection, shown against a back­ground of shim­mer­ing wa­ter, has a de­cid­edly nau­ti­cal flair, fea­tur­ing trim and dig­ni­fied white, navy and red suits with sug­ges­tions of of­fi­cial­ity in stripes. But these are not mere cos­tumes. The collection projects both lux­ury and a free-spirit.

The sil­hou­ette is dis­ci­plined, with the ex­pected blazer, dou­ble-breasted jacket and pea­coats, but cre­ative di­rec­tor Frida Gian­nini also in­cludes jack­ets with Neru col­lars and blousons with a con­trast­ing buckle waist­band that can func­tion as a shirt or jacket. Pants are lean and straight, or bag­gier and lose.

Frida Gian­nini gives the look a mod­ern twist with bold navy and white ver­ti­cally striped pants and jack­ets, worn to­gether for an eye-pop­ping op­ti­cal ef­fect but more of­ten mixed and matched with plain col­ors.

The stripe ap­pears also ap­pears on lapels, scarves tucked in­side jack­ets that sub­sti­tute for ties, and on the straps of the collection's am­ple leather duf­fel and mes­sen­ger bags.

The jeans on the Fendi run­way were not at all what they ap­peared. The shirt was printed cot­ton and the clas­sic jacket was in re­al­ity leather with a denim print.

Be­sides the denim elab­o­ra­tion, the collection by Sylvia Ven­turi Fendi also fea­tured wo­ven leather pieces and striped knits, as de­sign­ers con­tin­ued their study of the line. Again, there were no ties but silken scarves tucked in­side a sweater’s V or be­neath a jacket lapel. The color palate was eclec­tic, with some­thing for ev­ery taste. Shoes were mostly slip-on san­dals. Bags in­cluded a small front-carry pack that stays se­cure with a triple strap, biker style.

Den­i­mand mu­sic have al­ways been a win­ning com­bi­na­tion, as they were on the Fendi run­way, where Fendi in­tro­duced a new leather-clad colored head­phone in col­lab­o­ra­tion with Beats by Dr. Dre.

The Apu­lia-based brand Etro is pro­mot­ing bio­di­ver­sity in fash­ion — us­ing nat­u­ral fibers in part of the menswear collection for next sum­mer, and pro­mot­ing a di­verse diet.

Menswear de­signer Kean Etro says they wanted to show how thread could be made out of nat­u­ral prod­ucts, not only hemp, which is well-known, but also banana, ce­re­als and milk. Etro says the mes­sage be­hind the collection is “to keep bio­di­ver­sity run­ning in agri­cul­ture”.

The collection opened with a se­ries of looks made from nat­u­ral fibers, main­tain­ing a pre­dom­i­nantly white palate be­fore a color burst of egg blue, sal­mon pink and ca­nary yel­low. In­stead of the brand's fa­mil­iar pais­ley, the prints were pho­to­graphs of plates of food, from fruit to crus­taceans.

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