Think about the most popular cured hams from around the world. You’ll probably guess either Parma ham from Italy or jamon iberico from Spain and Portugal. But while the Italians, Spanish and Portuguese may have cornered the cured ham market in the West, they face stiff competition in China. Chances are you’ve never heard of Xuanwei county, a little pocket of Yunnan province, which for more than 250 years has been renowned for producing drycured ham. It first earned international acclaim when it won a gold medal for its meat at the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition.