Driver of fash­ion

Ralph Lau­ren says he gets ideas from high-end wheels

China Daily (USA) - - FRONT PAGE - By JENNIE MATHEW

With London Fash­ion Week kick­ing off on Fri­day, here are 10 top trends New York of­fered this sea­son. Jennie Matthew re­ports.

New York Fash­ion Week wrapped up on Wed­nes­day in an ex­plo­sion of glow­ing col­ors, greater in­roads into di­ver­sity, de­sign­ers still pon­der­ing the point of the run­way and younger tal­ent given a chance to shine.

As the global style band­wagon now flits to Europe, with London Fash­ion Week kick­ing off on Fri­day be­fore mov­ing onto Mi­lan and Paris, here are 10 top trends New York of­fered this sea­son:

1990s throw­back

Tom Ford kicked off the week by go­ing back to his Gucci hey­day, min­ing for in­spi­ra­tion the decade that made him fa­mous. There were plenty of low-slung pants, hip-graz­ing cut-out body­suits and boxy jack­ets.

Ital­ian la­bel GCDS also went for low-slung and body­suits, while Oscar de la Renta and Vic­to­ria Beck­ham showed over­sized jack­ets.

Oh, and 1990s su­per­model Cindy Craw­ford of­fi­cially passed the ba­ton to the next gen­er­a­tion — her 16-year-old daugh­ter Kaia Gerber made her run­way de­but for the Calvin Klein, Alexan­der Wang and Marc Ja­cobs.

Un­der boob

New York may be pri­mar­ily a com­mer­cial mar­ket that lux­u­ri­ates in wear­able fash­ion, and above all, sales — but side boob has been tabloid fod­der for years and de­sign­ers were not afraid to be dar­ing.

Spring/sum­mer is the sea­son for un­der boob — tops so short they just graze the nip­ple, re­veal­ing plenty of flesh un­der­neath. See Chro­mat and Vic­tor Bar­ra­gan. GCDS took it a step fur­ther by even show­ing nip­ple. Jack­ets were opened to re­veal side boob at Vicky Zhang.

Rain­bow col­ors

Col­lec­tions were a riot of ev­ery color from the rain­bow — hot pink paired with red: the color combo of the sea­son for the brave Tom Ford shop­per. Marc Ja­cobs went orange, green and psy­che­delic.

Spain’s lux­ury pret-a-cou­ture la­bel De­polzo lux­u­ri­ated in green, pale pink and bright yel­low. Yel­low was a state­ment color at Carolina Her­rera and also Ralph Lau­ren, in tulle with a black biker jacket.

Check mate

Fine check — or the graph­pa­per look as Vic­to­ria Beck­ham told AFP — is hav­ing a mo­ment. See Rosie As­soulin, Pub­lic School, Chris­tian Siri­ano, Monse and Calvin Klein among oth­ers.

Stripe right

Tra­di­tion­ally the pre­serve of old-fash­ioned pa­ja­mas, blue was the color of choice for ver­ti­cal stripes. Seen at Rosie As­soulin, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Phillip Lim, Sies Mar­jan, Monse and Ja­son Wu.

Fla­menco

With fla­menco an ul­ti­mate and time­less sum­mer fan­tasy, there were flounces and ruf­fles ga­lore for a flirty, sen­su­ous look. See Carolina Her­rera, Oscar de la Renta, Phillip Lim and Jeremy Scott. Mod­els

Pol­i­tics

Dis­gust with Don­ald Trump con­tin­ues to bub­ble over in New York and res­onates well with the largely fe­male clien­tele of lux­ury fash­ion la­bels — not to men­tion a Demo­crat-vot­ing, di­verse group of de­sign­ers.

Tory Burch of­fered an ode to hap­pi­ness to es­cape trou­bled times. Re­tailer alice + olivia had a model pose in front of a fem­i­nist wall and of­fered a Su­per Woman clutch.

Raf Si­mons, whose show for Calvin Klein was the week’s stand out, med­i­tated on the Amer­i­can dream meets Amer­i­can hor­ror.

Ri­hanna-fa­vorite Matthew Adams Dolan says that in times of “re­lent­less civil un­rest and widen­ing po­lit­i­cal di­vides”, he reimag­ined a “work­ing wardrobe for an in­clu­sive and cel­e­bra­tory gen­er­a­tion”.

Di­ver­sity

Con­tin­u­ing a theme, per­haps snub­bing their nose at Trump’s as­sault on mi­nori­ties, the no­to­ri­ously snooty world of fash­ion is start­ing to re­lax is rules of mem­ber­ship.

Plus-size mod­els are hav­ing a mo­ment in the sun, see Ash­ley Gra­ham walk­ing for Pra­bal Gu­rung and Michael Kors, not to men­tion plus-size only col­lec­tions from Ad­di­tion Elle and Chro­mat.

Giv­ing oth­ers a

present cre­ations dur­ing the re­cently con­cluded New York Fash­ion Week.

chance

With Raf Si­mons the lone stand­out and the de­par­ture of es­tab­lished trend set­ters Ro­darte, Proenza Schouler, Thom Browne and Al­tuzarra to Paris, it gave edi­tors, blog­gers and buy­ers time to check out shows sev­eral con­fessed they would never have both­ered to see oth­er­wise.

One was Mex­i­can-born Vic­tor Bar­ra­gan, 25, who got a packed house for his third New York show, of­fer­ing an orig­i­nal take on what it means to be mas­cu­line/fem­i­nine, the fe­male body and de­fy­ing con­ven­tions.

End of the run­way

A hot topic of con­ver­sa­tion for some time, an in­creas­ing num­ber of de­sign­ers are search­ing for some­thing dif­fer­ent. Ralph Lau­ren un­veiled his col­lec­tion out of town along­side his col­lec­tion of rac­ing cars.

Duchess of Cam­bridge fa­vorite Jenny Pack­ham, who next year cel­e­brates her epony­mous evening la­bel’s 30th an­niver­sary, ditched the run­way in fa­vor of a pho­to­graphic and video cam­paign to be re­leased on Thurs­day.

“I got what I wanted re­ally and I just felt it needed a bit more in­tegrity re­ally,” she says.

PHO­TOS BY MILK DIG­I­TAL / COURTESY OF RALPH LAU­REN /MICHAEL FURMAN

Ralph Lau­ren presents his Fall 2017 Run­way Col­lec­tion on Tues­day in his garage in Bed­ford, New York, which houses his col­lec­tion of some of the world’s rarest and most ex­pen­sive cars.

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