ABOUT TOWN

New Zealand’s ad­ven­ture cap­i­tal may best be known for its adrenalin-charged thrills—ski­ing, bungee jump­ing, white-wa­ter raft­ing, jet­boat­ing—but that’s only half of its al­lure.

DestinAsian - - DEPARTMENTS - BY BETHANY ROGERS

Where to eat, shop, and stay in Queen­stown, New Zealand.

Cra­dled by the snow­capped Re­mark­ables mountain range and over­look­ing the shim­mer­ing wa­ters of Lake Wakatipu, the pic­turesque re­sort town of Queen­stown has long been New Zealand’s top tourist des­ti­na­tion. At­tract­ing a good mix of na­ture lovers, adrenalin junkies, and food­ies, the boom­ing South Is­land com­mu­nity of only 14,000 res­i­dents wel­comes al­most three mil­lion tourists a year—and it’s easy to see why. With an ever-grow­ing mix of stylish ho­tels, great pro­duce-driven restau­rants, and other après-ski di­ver­sions, Queen­stown to­day com­bines ad­ven­ture and indulgence in equal mea­sure.

WHERE TO EAT

An up­scale rein­ven­tion of buf­fet-style din­ing, Bazaar Mar­ket­place ( 38–54 Lake Es­planade; 64-3/ 450-1336; bazaar­restau­rant.co.nz) opened ear­lier this year as part of the re­vamped Ry­dges Lake­land Re­sort, of­fer­ing an ar­ray of fresh seafood, cheese and char­cu­terie, grilled meats, and wood­fired piz­zas. Or head to nearby Be­spoke Kitchen ( 9 Isle St.; 64-3/409-0552; fb.com/be­spokek­itchen

queen­stown), which was voted New Zealand’s best café in a 2016 com­pe­ti­tion. Stand­outs in­clude a raw cheese­cake made with al­monds, cashews, and ca­cao; eggs Bene­dict on sour­dough toast; and house-baked Kiwi treats like Bakewell tarts and caramel slices.

The wider Cen­tral Otago re­gion is home to a num­ber of ex­cel­lent vine­yards, most known for their pinot noirs. One, Akarua Wines, has re­cently paired up with a lo­cal gourmet caterer to cre­ate

Akarua Wines & Kitchen by Ar­ti­san ( 265 Ar­row­town–Lake Hayes Rd.; 64-3/442-1090; akaru­aand ar­ti­san.co.nz). Open for lunch and break­fast, the restau­rant made its de­but last De­cem­ber in an 1870-built stone-and-clap­board cot­tage on the road to his­toric Ar­row­town. Don’t miss the pan-

zanella and ri­cotta-stuffed zuc­chini flow­ers, or cedar-smoked alpine salmon paired with a pinot noir or chardonnay.

WHERE TO SHOP

At first glance, Queen­stown’s rapid ex­pan­sion seems to have led to a glut of chain stores and sou­venir shops. But look again and there are signs the cre­ative com­mu­nity is push­ing back. On a pop­u­lar lake­side walk­ing track near Ju­bilee Park you’ll find an old build­ing cov­ered in ivy and creep­ers; once a butcher’s shop, it’s now

The Ivy Box ( 134 Park St.; 64/27-305-5826; theivy­box.co.nz), a gallery that show­cases bold, con­tem­po­rary works by Queen­stown-based artists in­clud­ing owner Lynda Hens­man.

Hid­den just beyond a gas sta­tion in the sub­urb of Frank­ton is The Barn ( 14 Hansen Rd.; 64/21-484-635; fb.com/the­barnnz). As its name sug­gests, the store oc­cu­pies a re­fur­bished farm build­ing and stocks a rus­tic col­lec­tion of home­wares and gift items to match, along­side New Zealand–made jew­elry and cos­met­ics. An­tiques lovers will want to bee­line it to The Den of

An­tiq­uity ( 51 Gorge Rd.; 64/21-304-600; de­nof an­tiq­uity.co.nz) on the north­ern edge of town. The shop’s ex­ten­sive in­ven­tory of fur­ni­ture and cu­rios are hand-picked by own­ers John Fraser and Dawn Colledge, who spend much of their time hunt­ing for 17th- to 20th-cen­tury an­tiques in Europe.

WHERE TO STAY

You can’t do much bet­ter than Eichardt’s Pri­vate Ho­tel ( 2 Marine Parade; 64-3/441-0450, eichardts.co.nz; apart­ments from US$679), the town’s 140-year-old grand dame. Its new pent­house ex­ten­sion will set you back a cool 10,000 New Zealand dol­lars a night, but the apart­ments and suites of­fer sim­i­lar lux­ury (and lake views) for a frac­tion of the cost.

There’s been much ex­cite­ment over the re­open­ing of the 1888 villa Hul­bert House ( 68 Bal­larat St.; 64-3/442-8767; hul­bert­house.co.nz; suites from US$519), ren­o­vated un­der the guid­ance of top Kiwi de­signer Neil McLach­lan. Eye-pop­ping col­ors, loud pat­terns, and an­tique fur­nish­ings meld into a beau­ti­ful mix of Vic­to­rian lux­ury and con­tem­po­rary chic. A short drive east is an­other restora­tion suc­cess story, the Sher­wood ( 554 Frank­ton Rd.; 64-3/450-1090; sher­woodqueens

town.nz; dou­bles from US$126). Once a run-down mock-Tu­dor mo­tel, the hill­side prop­erty has been trans­formed into quirky eco-friendly lodg­ings with a zero-waste pol­icy. Rooms are sim­ple, but the real draw is the ho­tel’s cul­tural and com­mu­nity of­fer­ings. There’s a reg­u­lar ro­ta­tion of live mu­sic, films, and artists in res­i­dence, as well as yoga, Pi­lates, and med­i­ta­tion classes.

Above: Views of Lake Wakatipu from the ter­race of the pent­house at Eichardt’s Pri­vate Ho­tel. Op­po­site, from

top: In­side The Den of An­tiq­uity; a smor­gas­bord of de­lights at Bazaar Mar­ket­place.

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