RAISING THE BARR
Building on an idea that has been simmering for the past few years, René Redzepi and fellow Danish maverick Thorsten Schmidt, of the acclaimed Malling & Schmidt in Aarhus, have launched Barr. The new restaurant occupies the former home of Redzepi’s Noma—which closed in February—on the Copenhagen waterfront. In the kitchen, Schmidt dishes out an experimental take on the traditional fare of the wider North Sea region, reaching beyond Scandinavia to include Germany, Benelux, and the British Isles. Highlights on the opening menu include hot-smoked salmon and butter-fried frikadeller (Danish pork meatballs) glazed with Barr’s version of Marmite, not to mention elderflower-speckled sourdough pancakes and caviar in citrus foam. The drinks list is just as inspired, with a selection of beers and aquavit sourced from breweries across this same geographical expanse ( restaurantbarr.com).