A DAY IN TIN HAU

DestinAsian - - THE GUIDE -

Named for the god­dess of the sea, Tin Hau is a quiet, unas­sum­ing cor­ner of Hong Kong Is­land that’s tra­di­tion­ally been over­shad­owed by nearby Cause­way Bay. How­ever, this eclec­tic lo­cale is mak­ing a name for it­self as a cul­tural and culi­nary des­ti­na­tion in its own right, with de­gus­ta­tion restau­rants, cock­tail bars, and hidden pri­vate kitchens open­ing in the nar­row streets that wreath the neigh­bor­hood’s name­sake tem­ple.

9 a.m. Be­gin your morn­ing with an or­ganic sin­gle-ori­gin cof­fee and a home­made ba­nanawal­nut muf­fin at lo­cal in­sti­tu­tion Pumper­nickle ( cafepumper­nickel.com), which opened way back in 2000. Heartier op­tions in­clude the gen­er­ously sized omelettes and all-day break­fasts. 10:30 a.m. Sev­eral blocks away, the 18th-cen­tury

Tin Hau Tem­ple is well worth a visit. Built by the Hakka Tai clan on what was then the wa­ter­front, it re­mains an ac­tive place of wor­ship. Af­ter­ward, take a stroll in nearby Vic­to­ria Park, where you’ll see grand­moth­ers prac­tic­ing tai chi with mock swords and cou­ples slow-danc­ing beneath the banyan trees. Look out for the statue of Queen Vic­to­ria, which was cast in Lon­don and saved from a Ja­panese scrap­yard after World War II.

12:30 p.m. Lunch awaits at another r lo­cal fa­vorite, Sis­ter Wah, a Miche­lin-rec­og­nized hole-in-the­wall with just six ta­bles and a sim­ple menu of home-style dishes. The spe­cialty here is beef brisket and egg noo­dle soup, with other crowd-pleasers be­ing the dan dan noo­dles and rice wine–soaked “drunken chicken.” 3:00 p.m. Walk off that lunch with a lit­tle shop­ping. Mid­west Vin­tage ( mid­west-vin­tage .com) on Wat­son Road is one of the most pop­u­lar spe­cialty stores in Tin Hau, with ev­ery­thing from vin­tage T-shirts and satchels, to jeans, cus­tom jew­elry, mil­i­tary sur­plus, and sports team jack­ets. Roughly 10 min­utes away on foot, the first floor of Ap­ple Mall is home to Teddy Vil­lage ( teddy

vil­lage.com), whose hand­crafted toy bears— woven with English and Ger­man mo­hair—are all made by artist Hilda Ng.

6 p.m. Pre­pare your palate with a few beers at one of Tin Hau’s new­est wa­ter­ing holes,

Drunk­er­land ( 27 Ngan Mok St.). Thanks to an ex­ten­sive range of lo­cal and in­ter­na­tional brews, this is a chance to sip your way across the world with­out hav­ing to leave your street-front ta­ble. 7:30 p.m. Dive into Tin Hau’s con­tem­po­rary din­ing scene at AnOther Place by David My­ers ( an­oth­er­place.com.hk), a pri­vate kitchen serv­ing mod­ern French-Asian fare amid in­dus­tri­alchic in­te­ri­ors. For­get the cramped con­fines of most pri­vate kitchens: this spot is spa­cious and el­e­gant, withw a main din­ing room ad­ja­cent to a barb lounge and bal­cony. Fouran­dan six-course “dis­cov­ery” menus are in­spired by My­ers’ ex­ten­sive trav­els. Be sure to book a ta­ble well in ad­vance. 10:00 p.m. Be­fore head­ing out via MTR, stop by the cozyc Vosé Bar & Res­tau­rant ( b bar­withus.com) on Elec­tric Road. The venue’sv name­sake cock­tail com­bines dark rum and rose syrup with cran­berry and grapefruit juice, an ideal drink to sip on while en­joy­ing live mu­sic ev­ery Wednesday, Friday, and Satur­day night.

Look­ingth­rough ofTinHauT em­ple, theen­trance name­tothe which­gaveits sur­roundin­garea.

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