INTO THE LIGHT

When Nelson Mandela walked to freedom in 1990 he also opened the doors to South Africa. As this remarkable country celebrates the late president’s 100th birthday, WILL HIDE goes deep into the Mandela heartland in search of the man and the legacy

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On what would have been Nelson Mandela’s 100th birthday, WILL HIDE goes to South Africa in search of his legacy

邁向光明

適逢曼德拉百歲壽辰紀念, Will Hide前往南非追尋這位偉人的生平事蹟

已故南非總統曼德拉於1990年重獲自由,同時亦敞開了南非門的大 。這個非凡的國家今年慶祝曼德拉100歲誕辰念紀 , Will Hide深入他的故鄉,追尋這位偉人的生平事及蹟 貢獻

Iam having trouble understanding Christo Brand. It’s not the quality of the phone line. Rather, it’s his thick-asmolasses South African accent when he talks in English. I’ve been to Cape Town more than 30 times but I’m struggling. Brand is telling me about his unusual friendship with the late President Nelson Mandela – the man who was jailed for 27 years for his opposition to the National Party government’s policy of apartheid – and who was born 100 years ago this month.

Unusual? Brand was one of Mandela’s prison guards on Robben Island and at Pollsmoor Prison, both in Cape Town. He went from regarding Mandela as a terrorist to a close personal friend. He secretly arranged for the African National Congress leader to see his granddaughter in jail and sat with him in his cell on his 70th birthday watching the movie The Last Emperor.

我實在聽不明白Christo Brand在講什麼,並非因為話電 的線路有問題,他而是 的英語夾雜了濃南重的 非口音。我去過開普敦30多,次 但仍聽不懂這種口音。

Christo跟我暢談他跟已故總統德曼 拉一段非比尋常的友誼。這位南非領袖因對抗南非國民黨政府的種族隔離政策而入獄27年。本月適逢曼德拉100歲誕辰紀念,正好趁此機會對他和南非作更深入的了解。

我以「非比尋常」來形容Brand與德曼拉的友誼,是有原因的。當年曼德拉在開普敦的羅本島和Pollsmoor Prison監獄服刑時, Brand是其中一名負責看守他的獄卒。他起初將曼德拉視為恐怖分子,後來兩人卻成為好友。他曾秘密安排這位非洲人國民大會領袖在獄中與孫女會面,於又 曼德拉70歲生日當天一起與他在囚室裡觀賞電影代溥。《末 皇帝 儀》

Brand憶述:於「我 1978年月10 首次見到德,曼 拉 當時我在羅本島工作了大約

‘I first met him in October 1978, about three months after I’d started my job on Robben Island,’ Brand recalls. ‘I was told he was the biggest terrorist in the country and we were supposed to hate him, but he was already an elderly man, and I treated him with respect.’ Brand is the author of Mandela: My Prisoner, My Friend (John Blake Publishing).

Robben Island, where Mandela was held from 1963 to 1982, is now an essential stop for any visitor to Cape Town. You can inspect the prison blocks and listen as former inmates act as tour guides. (Book online before you leave home: in summer it gets very busy.) Certainly, this centenary year in particular, the legacy of Madiba, as Mandela was affectionately known, acts as a lightning rod for tourism to the country and is a reason many people visit South Africa.

Away from the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, where you board the 20-minute ferry to Robben Island, I climbed into my rented VW Golf and drove round the side of Table Mountain. The former District Six neighbourhood spread out beside me. It was once a lively, thriving area with bars and jazz joints and people of all colours mixing. Which was a problem for the proapartheid government. So during the 1970s, District Six was bulldozed and most of its 60,000 non-white residents moved to the dusty suburb of Mitchells Plain, out beyond the airport. If I’d continued on the M2 motorway I’d have arrived there, but I turned off, past the neat, posh, gated suburbs of Constantia and Newlands, past vineyards and cricket grounds.

I reached the golf course in leafy Tokai, but that was not my destination. Instead I turned into the gates of Pollsmoor maximum-security prison, where Mandela was incarcerated between 1982 and 1988.

It’s an unusual tourist destination, I agree, but for those who want to travel on the Mandela trail, it’s possible for anyone – once they’ve had the boot of their car

AT POLLSMOOR PRISON, VISITORS EAT AT THE PRISON OFFICERS’ CANTEEN INSIDE RAZORWIRE PROTECTED FENCES訪客可在POLLSMOOR PRISON監獄的獄警飯堂進餐,外面是用有刺鐵絲搭成的圍欄

inspected – to drive in, park up and eat at the prison officers’ canteen deep inside the razor-wire protected fences (still well away from hardened gang members).

The food isn’t going to win awards: but it’s cheap. Your waiters are low-risk prisoners awaiting release and being trained for a vocation that will hopefully keep them on the straight and narrow. I was here for breakfast: fried eggs, sausage, bacon, toast. You’re not supposed to ask why people are incarcerated but I couldn’t resist. ‘Bad chicks,’ I was told by my server, who was missing a few teeth. ‘Problems with women?’ I responded. ‘Nah man,’ he replied in heavily accented South African English, where vowels are swallowed up and flung about with abandon. ‘I was writing bad cheques… they bounced.’

Drive east for around 45 minutes and mountains start to rear up in front of you. Before you reach them, signs for wineries become prolific. Many vineyards offer tastings and have restaurants and cafes, as well as tree-shaded lawns on which to spread out an impromptu picnic. If you turn off the motorway near Paarl and head towards the foodie village of Franschhoek, the driveway of the Drakenstein Correctional Centre might look familiar.

It was from here that Mandela walked to freedom on 11 February 1990, when it was known as Victor Verster Prison. With a bit of planning you can go inside to see the cottage where he spent the last few months of his captivity; you just need to call and ask for the communication manager with at least two weeks’ notice.

So I got to sit on Mr Mandela’s toilet, although I thought it would have betrayed the dignity of the place to take a selfie. And I was shown the holes drilled in the barbecue outside where the security

三個月。上司對我說,他是國內頭號恐怖分子,應我們 當對他恨之入骨但, 他那時年事已高,所以我對他有一分尊重。」Brand後來寫了《Mandela: My Prisoner, My Friend》一書,記述兩人的相處和友誼。這本書由John Blake Publishing出版。

羅本島是曼德拉於1963年至1982年被囚禁的地點,現在已成為旅客必到的開普敦觀光熱點。昔日曾在這裡服刑的囚友,今天擔任導遊一職,為前來監獄參觀的旅客講解各種詳請情。 記住於出發前在網上預約,因為夏季是旅遊旺季,前參來 觀的人非常多,加上今年適逢Madiba(當人地對曼德拉的暱稱)的百歲誕辰紀,念 定會吸 引更多旅客前往南非,步進一 帶旺當地的旅遊業。

旅客在Victoria and Alfred Waterfront海濱廣場的碼頭乘坐渡輪只,需20分鐘就可抵達羅本島;而我則坐進租來的福士Golf車內,駕車沿著桌山駛去。昔日第六區的所在地就在我身旁出現,該區曾經是酒吧和爵士樂會所林立的繁華之地,不同種族的人在這裡聚居,十分熱鬧。主張種族隔離的政府當然將這個地方視為眼中釘,於是第六區在1970年代被夷為平當地, 地60,000名非白人居民大部分被逼遷至遠離機場的市郊Mitchells Plain那裡去。如我果沿著高M2 速公路繼續駛去,就可抵達那個沙塵滾滾的方地 ,但我拐了個彎,經過遍佈豪、宅整潔雅致的Constantia和Newlands兩區再, 駛經多個葡萄園和板球場。

然後我來到綠意盎然的Tokai區內一個高爾夫球場,但那並非我的目的地,而是轉彎駛最進 高度設防的Pollsmoor Prison監獄;那是曼德拉於1982年至1988年間期被囚禁的地方。

我認承 這並非般一 的觀光日點,但任何人若對曼德拉的生平感興趣只,需在駕車抵達後守,讓 衛檢查一下車尾箱,就可以將汽車駛進監獄,踏足保安森嚴的監獄範圍,在獄警的飯堂裡用餐(不必擔心,你與那些在囚的黑幫慣犯仍有段一 頗遠的距)離 。

飯堂裡的食物當然是並不 獲獎佳餚,不過價錢便宜侍。應是危險度低而且即將刑滿獄出 的囚犯,他們在接這裡 受職業訓練,以出便 獄後能自力更,生 走上正途。我點了一份早餐,有炒蛋、、香腸 煙肉多和 士。本來客人不應聽該打 獄中人被囚的原因,但我實在按捺不住好奇心。招呼我的侍應缺了幾顆牙齒我,聽見他答道:「婊子( chicks)。」於是我再問:「跟女人有關嗎?」「才不!」他以口音極重的南非腔英語回答,元音在他嘴裡隨意。吞吐 「我開空頭支票( cheques)……結果彈票了。」

向東駕車約45分鐘,聳立的山峰逐漸展現眼前。還未抵達山腳,就已見到不少葡萄酒莊的招牌。許多萄葡 園都會安品排酒活動,並設有餐廳和咖啡室,以及綠樹成蔭的草坪,若客興人 之所至,更可以就地野餐如。 果在Paarl城附近的公路轉向著,少以美食見稱的Franschhoek村,駛去 途中見到通往Drakenstein Correctional Centre方教中心的小路,可能令你覺得十分眼熟。

曼德拉就是在1990年2月11日從這裡脫離牢獄,步向自由,當時這個地方叫做維克托韋斯特監獄。旅客可以入內參曼觀 德拉獲在 釋前幾個月居住的小屋,不過需要在到訪前最少兩星期致傳電 訊經理安參排觀事宜。

於是,我有機會坐在曼德拉先生曾經坐馬過的 桶,沒上 但 有自拍,想因為 保持對這個地方的尊重。然後有人帶我去看外面的燒爐烤 ,上面鑽了多個小孔,那是當時的政府安全機關為安裝竊聽器而鑽挖的總。

Long walk to peace Opposite, clockwise from top left: Nelson Mandela and former prison guard Christo Brand; tours at Drakenstein Correctional Centre and Robben Island; Drakenstein Correctional Centre; Mandela’s cottage. This page: Robben Island (above, below). Franschhoek winelands (bottom) 朝向和平之路對頁,左上圖起順時針:曼德拉與前監獄守衛Christo Brand;參觀Drakenstein Correctional Centre懲教中心及遊覽羅本島; Drakenstein Correctional Centre懲教中心;囚禁曼德拉的小屋。本頁:羅本島風光(上圖及下圖); Franschhoek的葡萄園(最下圖)

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