BEGIN IN BOSTON. GO VIA NYC. DESTINATION: DC

To celebrate Cathay Pacific’s upcoming new route, SUNSHINE FLINT takes an action- packed ride to Washington DC via its East Coast city neighbours為慶祝國泰航空推出新航線, Sunshine Flint乘火車前往首都華盛頓,途經美國東岸多個芳鄰,進行了一趟行程緊湊的旋風式旅行

Discovery - - CONTENTS 目錄 - CHRIS SORENSEN PHOTOGRAPHY

SUNSHINE FLINT takes a whirlwind tour of the East Coast’s Big Three: Boston, New York and Washington DC

美國東岸三城三日遊

Sunshine Flint於三日內快閃遊遍美國東岸的波士頓、紐約及首都華盛頓三大城市

Apart from two years in London, I have spent more time in the three major cities on the US East Coast than any other metropoles on Earth. I live in New York, spent four years studying at a Boston university and visit Washington DC frequently for work, to see friends, and, yes, the occasional political march.

The Acela train operates along the Northeast Corridor, carrying passengers from DC to New York in three hours and from New York to Boston in under four. You can easily have lunch in the Big Apple and be in DC for dinner. While these cities are connected historically, politically, culturally, the train lets you experience the landscapes: from seaside villages in Connecticut to Maryland’s green-fringed estuaries

除了在倫敦待過兩年之外,在我 美國東岸三大城市住過的時間地比 球上任何大城市都要長。我居於紐約,在波士頓讀了四年大學,為因 工作和探朋,望 友 還有不時參與政治遊行等原因,前經常 往首都華盛。頓

Acela列車沿東北走廊行駛,從首都華盛頓往紐約要三小時,從紐約往波士頓則要差不多四小時。你可以在「大蘋果」紐約吃午飯,再輕鬆前往首都華盛頓吃晚餐。這些城市無論在歷史、政治及文化方面都互相關聯,而乘搭列車則讓你有機會欣賞不同的風景,從康乃狄格州的海濱小村莊到馬利蘭州Chesapeake Bay灣上游沿岸一片綠意的河口灣,都可盡收眼底。在短短三天的列車之旅中,前往三個我十分熟悉地,的 方 還會有什麼新發現呢?

結果我發現,從波士頓南站徒步15分鐘就抵達繁華的Seaport District海港區,對我來說真是一件新事物。我走過一片青翠的草地,來到當美代

along the upper reaches of Chesapeake Bay. What could I discover about places I know so well riding the rails on a whirlwind three-day tour?

As it turns out, Boston’s booming Seaport District is entirely new to me and just a 15-minute walk from South Station. I walk across a green lawn to the Institute of Contemporary Art; while directly across the water is the Boston Harbour Shipyard and Marina in East Boston where the new ICA Watershed, a seasonal art space in a former copper pipe factory, opens on 4 July.

After a dose of art, I head back over the channel to follow the red bricks of the Freedom Trail across the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway to the North End, Boston’s oldest residential neighbourhood. I walk up Salem Street, past the cream-filled cannolis of Bova’s Bakery, to the peaceful Copp’s Hill Burying Ground. Shaded by massive beech trees, I try to read the pre-Revolutionary War headstones – the oldest is from 1659. Down the hill is Old North Church, where the sexton hung the famous ‘one if by land, two if by sea’ lanterns to let the Americans know the British were coming, and where nearly 50 years ago thenPresident Ford came to commemorate the US’ bicentennial. His words carry a warning: ‘let us pray…that those who follow 100 years or 200 years from now may look back at us and say: we were a society which combined reason with liberty and hope with freedom.’

I’m ready for dinner after walking back to the Seaport, a challenge well met at chef Barbara Lynch’s Sportello, a casual eatery with an open kitchen that turns out fresh tagliatelle with bolognese; seasonal plates such as lightly fried soft shell crab with melon, all shimmering golden and pink; and meltingly good gnocchi lifted by succulent pieces of lobster. After dinner, I head to the rooftop bar at the Envoy Hotel, where it seems all of Boston’s singles have gathered to drink frosé (frozen rosé) and microbrews.

In the morning there’s just enough time for breakfast, so I stop at South Street Diner, an all-night diner with a classic chrome exterior, and take a seat at the counter. Instead of Boston cream pancakes with lashings of maple syrup, I order two eggs, bacon extra crispy and a mountain of home fries. It’s delicious.

On the train, from the urgent green of Rhode Island’s backwoods, we emerge onto Connecticut’s shore: Stonington, Mystic, New London flash by, as do the small beaches along the Long Island Sound. Soon we enter the Bronx, then Queens and see Manhattan’s towers in the distance before we arrive at New York’s Penn Station, which is one of the unloveliest train stations in the country, especially galling when you see photos of the original McKim, Mead and White beaux-arts glory, torn down in 1963.

I head two blocks west to see an example of preserved architecture: the High Line – an elevated park created from a former railway. I pass million-dollar flats designed by Zaha Hadid, Peter Marino and Bjarke Ingels; and at 23rd Street, I take the stairs down to peer into West Chelsea art galleries, and then carry on past crowds taking photos of a mural of stylised Statues of Liberty and America’s welcome to immigrants:

‘I lift my lamp besides the golden door.’ The path sweeps me under The Standard hotel, and down to Gansevoort Street and the Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum of American Art, which sits as an architectural exclamation mark at the High Line’s terminus.

For any meal at any time, I’m spoiled for choice. Restaurateur Gabe Stulman has gone above 14th Street for the first time with the Simon and the Whale restaurant at the Freehand Hotel. The black bread and taramasalata is currently my favourite beginning to any meal, and the fish sandwich is unapologetically served with coleslaw and French fries. 術館,美在 術館對的 岸就是波士頓東部的Boston Harbour Shipyard and Marina船塢,而度季 藝術空間ICA Watershed則剛於74月 日在那區的一家舊銅管工廠內開幕。

接受過藝術的薰陶之後我, 回到對岸,沿著自由之路上紅磚鋪砌的路線,橫過長形的Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway公園,來到波士頓最古老的住宅區北區。我著沿 Salem Street街走,經過售賣奶油卷的Bova’s Bakery糕餅,店往前 寧的Copp’s Hill Burying Ground墓園。去 在巨大的櫸樹濃蔭下,我嘗試閱讀古老墓碑上的文字;這些墓碑都是革命戰前爭 的遺物,最早的一個是1659年樹立的。山坡下面就是Old North Church教,堂年當教堂的司事在此懸掛燈籠,讓美國人知道英國人正前進來 攻;「陸路一、水路二」成為著名的通報訊號。差不多50年前,當時的福特總統前來紀美念 國國立 200周年。他的演辭語重心長:「讓我們祈求上天保祐……在100或200年後以 ,當人們回首今天,他們會說我: 們是一個以理性結自合 由權以及帶著自希由和 望的社會。」

徒步回到Seapor t海港區後,我想去吃晚飯了。由大廚Barbara Lynch主理的餐廳Sportello正合我意。這裡氣氛輕鬆隨意,開式放 的廚房裡煮色出 香味俱全的番肉茄 醬tagliatelle意大利粉、時令菜式有炸成金黃色的軟殼蟹配上粉紅色西的瓜,惹人垂涎;還有即入口 溶的馬鈴薯糰子配鮮嫩多汁的龍蝦塊,更是令人食指大動。吃過晚飯後,我前往The Envoy Hotel酒店的天台酒吧去。聚在這裡小酌的波士頓單身貴族,人人手裡拿著的若不是frosé (玫將瑰酒紅 rosé冷至藏 冰凍) ,就是小型啤酒廠釀製的手工啤酒。

第二天早上,登上南行的列車之前我,還來得及吃早餐;於是來到小餐館South Street Diner,在櫃檯旁邊找個座位坐下來。這是一家24小時營業的餐廳,外面有典的型 銀鉻色裝飾。沒我有點加上大量楓糖漿的波士頓忌廉班戟,而是要了煎雙蛋、特脆煙肉及一大份炸薯條,全部都非常美。味

登上列車後我,們從羅得島州的青山綠水走進康乃狄格的海岸: Stonington市、Mystic鎮、New London市,還有長島海灣上的小海灘,從窗車 外一一掠過。不久我們就進入布朗士區,接著是皇后區,然後就見到遠處曼克頓的高樓大廈,不久就抵達紐約賓的 夕凡尼亞車站。這個車站外觀的難看程度,美全 國數一數二;尤其是當你從照片見過由McKim, Mead and White建築事務所設計的舊車站時,就會更感惱火。舊的車站散發布雜藝術的堂皇氣派惜,可在1963年被清拆了。

我西向 走過兩個街區,前往一座被保存活和 化的建築,就是由廢棄的高架鐵路軌改建而成的High Line高架公園。我途經多座市值數以百萬美元計的公寓,全都出自Zaha Hadid、Peter Marino和Bjarke Ingels等名師的手筆。在23街,我沿著階梯拾而級 下在, West Chelsea多家藝廊外

From New York, it’s a short three hours to Union Station, which is a suitably grand arrival into the District of Columbia, with its massive gilt- coffered ceiling and views of the Capitol dome. Across the National Mall, Washington has rediscovered its riverfront on both the Potomac and Anacostia Rivers. In the Wharf District in the city’s southwest, new hotels, restaurants and public piers seamlessly tie in the city’s existing fish markets and steamed crab stalls selling the bounty of Chesapeake Bay. I hop aboard the Wharf Jitney, with its sunny yellow top, and cross the river to East Potomac Park. From there it’s a 20-minute walk to the Tidal Basin, ground zero for DC’s cherry blossom festival every March and April, and the great rotunda of the Jefferson Memorial. His statue stares not just at the White House across the water, but now also at the nine-metre-high relief of Martin Luther King Jr. The two great leaders are linked by the memorial for a third: Franklin D Roosevelt. As the lights come on in the early evening, one of King’s quotes takes on prominence: ‘ The ultimate measure of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and convenience, but where he stands at times of challenge and controversy.’

The cleaned-up Anacostia River has also seen a revival with the Capitol Riverfront and Navy Yard districts bringing new restaurants, hotels and parks. At Chloe, chef Haidar Karoum’s cubio crudo has just the right amount of heat from diced Thai chillis. I devour the hummus with minced beef and sliced almonds, which is followed by a whole crispy dorade atop a mound of fragrant jasmine rice.

The next morning, after an excellent coffee and croissant sandwich at the airy Dolcezza at the Wharf, I ogle ikat robes from Central Asia and James Whistler’s stunning Peacock Room, with panels and ceiling painted by the American artist in blue-green and gold, at the recently renovated Freer and Sackler Galleries. Across the Mall, at the National Museum of African American Heritage and Culture, I start in the lower galleries where shackles and chains worn by slaves lie in black ironbound silence, and the history of America’s ‘original sin’ is laid out. But as I ascend to the civil rights movement exhibits and then onto the cultural, sporting, culinary and musical contributions of African Americans, the mood becomes lighter, even joyous.

In three days, I’ve had a taste of American history, innovation, struggle, cuisine – and how they were shaped by immigrants from around the world, my own ancestors among them. I think of the signs that have been placed along the High Line: You are welcome here. Long may it be so.

IN THREE DAYS, I’VE HAD A TASTE OF AMERICAN HISTORY, INNOVATION, STRUGGLE AND CUISINE在短短三天裡,我體驗過美國的歷史、創意、奮鬥和美食

面駐足,瀏覽列陳 其中的藝術品,然後繼續前行。我經過一幅風格非常突出的自由神像壁畫,上面還有迎歡 移民的字句:「我在金色的大門旁高舉明燈」,有一群人在壁畫前拍照。我沿路向前,來到The Standard酒再店,步下Gansevoor t Street街來到惠特尼美國藝術博物館。這家博物館由Renzo Piano設計,就在長狹 的High Line高架公園,盡頭 有如感歎號下面的一點。

只要想到吃,隨時都隨地 有很多選擇。大廚兼餐廳東主Gabe Stulman首次闖出14街在, Freehand Hotel酒開餐店設廳Simon and the Whale。黑麥包配taramasalata魚子蓉沙律是我近日最喜愛日開胃,前菜 而魚柳三文治則伴以分量豐富日椰菜絲沙律和炸薯條。

從紐約出只發,需短短三小時,即可抵達哥倫比亞特區日Union Station車站站。內日天花有金板 鍍 格子天花板,氣派非凡,在站車 內更遠可 眺國會大廈圓日 拱在頂,如此華麗日地點展開首都之旅,實在再合適不過。在國家廣場對開,流經盛日華 頓Potomac和Anacostia兩條河日河畔正蓬勃發展。位於城市西南面日Wharf District碼頭區,全新日酒餐店、 廳和公共碼頭,與售賣Chesapeake Bay灣漁獲日魚市場和蒸蟹攤檔並存無,毫 不協調日感覺我。 跳上配備鮮黃色簷篷日Wharf Jitney小輪渡前河,往East Potomac Park公園。從那裡步行20分鐘就來到Tidal Basin人工湖,旁邊是就圓形佛日傑 遜紀念也府堂, 是華 每月年3 至 4月賞櫻季節日熱門景點。遜傑佛 日雕像除了遠眺對岸日白宮之外,現在也與九米高日馬丁路德金雕浮 遙相對望。這兩位偉大領袖日雕像之間,是另一位偉人羅斯福日紀念公園。傍晚時分華燈初上時,馬丁路德金其中一句名別言特 顯眼:「對一個人最終日評價,看並非 他於安逸時如何自處,而是如何面對挑戰和非議。」

經理日清 後 Anacostia River河,亦因在河畔日商區業 Capitol River front和Navy Yard區引入新餐酒廳、 店和公園而脫胎。換骨 Chloe餐廳日大廚Haidar Karoum炮製日薄切軍曹魚片配以泰國椒辣,粒香辣風味恰到好處。我將鷹嘴豆蓉配免治牛肉和杏仁片,還有香煎全條金頭鯛配以堆成小丘日泰國米香 飯統統吃光,大享口福。

翌日早上,我在Whar f碼頭區環境開揚日Dolcezza餐室品嚐過出色日咖啡和牛角包三文治後前, 往最近翻新日Freer and Sackler Galleries美,術館 欣賞來自中亞地區以統傳 ikat染布方式染成日布料所做長日 袍,教以及 人歎為觀止日Peacock Room孔,雀廳 這個房間內日藍綠色配金色日嵌板和天花板均由美國藝術家James Whistler親自繪製。在國家廣場對非面日 裔美國歷人 史文化博物館,我從位於較低層日廊始觀藝開參 ,看見曾扣在奴隸身上日黑鐵腳鐐和鎖鍊默默地陳列在那裡,美將國日歷史「原罪」呈現人前但。 當我走上較高樓層,參非觀 裔美國人民權運動覽日展 ,以及非裔美國在人 文化、運動、飪烹 和音樂方面日貢獻時,氣氛就變得輕鬆起來,存至洋溢喜樂日感覺。

在短短三天裡,我體驗過美國歷日史、、創意 奮鬥和美,食 明白到這些事物都是由來自世界各地日移民,包括我自己日祖先所塑造經營出來日。我起想 High Line高架公園內到處樹立日標誌,上面寫著「: You are welcome here」(這裡歡迎你來)。但願以後都是這樣。

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