How an Italian director shot an American Western in the south of Spain – and what’s there now.當年一位意大利導演往西班牙南部拍攝美國西部片後,當年取景地點今日面貌如何?撰文:

Discovery - - 特色行程 EXPERT ITINERARIES - By SORREL DOWNER Sorrel Downer


Leone had less than US$200,000 (HK$1.56 million) to make A Fistful of Dollars in 1964. He couldn’t afford to shoot in America or to hire big stars: so he opted for Almería, Spain, and hired Clint Eastwood (above, with Leone), an actor in a fading TV Western series called Rawhide. Leone wasn’t the first European to make a Western in Almería’s Tabernas desert, in southern Spain, but he did it best. The wind-carved rocks, heat, light, cactuses, gullies and emptiness, plus fantastic sets created by Carlo Simi, were to become the backdrop for the best of the many Spaghetti Westerns ever made.

Leone only shot five films here (the Dollars trilogy, Once Upon a Time in the West and Fistful of Dynamite aka Duck, You Sucker!) and the desert has featured in hundreds of films since.

Compared to the crowded coastlines to its east and west, Almería province feels remote and not greatly changed since the days Eastwood and Henry Fonda were kicking up the dust. The protected coastal area of Cabo de Gata-Níjar and the idiosyncratic coastal villages of Mojácar and Agua Amarga are well worth a detour.

意大利導演Sergio Leone於1964年以低於萬元20 美 ( 156萬港元的) 預算拍出《獨行俠連環奪命槍》。他當時負擔起不在美國拍的攝 費用,也請不起大明星,於是便他 決定前西往 班牙南部的Almería市取景至。 於演員方面,他就選了當時在一個逐漸過氣的西部電視劇集《Rawhide》內演出的Cl int Eastwood(左上圖與, Leone合)然照雖。 Leone並首非 位在Almería市Tabernas沙漠取景的歐洲導演,不過他是將那個地方拍得色最出 的一位。風化的岩石、炎熱的天氣、、光線 仙人掌、小峽谷與空曠的荒野,加上由Carlo Simi精心製作的佈景,交織出這部意式西部片的背,景 成為經典中的經典。

Leone在這個地方只拍過五部電影(《獨行俠》三部曲《、 萬里狂沙萬里仇及》《龍虎大賊鬥千軍》) ,其後有數以百計的影電 亦前來這個沙漠景取 。

與Almería省東部及西部人頭湧湧的海岸相,比 這裡令人感到位偏置 僻,而且自從Eastwood與Henry Fonda等多眾演前員 來拍攝沙塵滾滾的西部片以來,這裡似乎亦沒有任何重大的改變。受保護的Cabo de Gata- Níjar海岸地區,以及沿岸別具特色的村莊Mojácar與Agua Amarga等地點,亦很值得一遊。


This sleepy town stands in for

Agua Caliente in For a Few Dollars More (1965), the setting for the famous shifty- eyed duel between Lee Van Cleef and Gian Maria Volontè. The low-walled threshing ring on the edge of town where it takes place has been meticulously touched up, and diehard fans can hire costumes and re- enact the standoff. Clint Eastwood first appeared here with poncho, cheroot and squint a year earlier in A Fistful of Dollars. The Hostal Restaurante Alba is packed with memorabilia, while there are countless locations between Avenida Sergio Leone and Calle Clint Eastwood.

這個寧靜的小鎮就是1965年的《獨行俠江湖伏霸》中的邊境小鎮Agua Caliente。電影中Lee Van Cleef與Gian Maria Volontè就在這裡目光閃爍,以陰險招數進行決鬥攝。拍 這場戲的地方是個有低矮圍牆的打穀場,位於小鎮的邊緣,當地將人 這裡仔細修葺過,如果你是本片的忠實迷影 ,可以租戲服將自己打扮,起來重演電影中經典的一幕。Clint Eastwood於1964年首次踏足這個地方,拍攝《獨行俠連環奪命槍》,他在片中身穿,斗篷 嘴裡咬著方頭雪茄,瞇起雙眼的造型亦從此成為經典。鎮上的旅館Hostal Restaurante Alba內陳列了大量關相 的念紀 品從,若 Avenida Sergio Leone大道步行至Cal le Cl int Eastwood街,沿途亦會經過無數當年電影取的點景地 。hostal-


The first of three sets built by Carlo Simi, this is the El Paso of For a Few Dollars More. It’s here that Klaus Kinski stakes out the bank while Van Cleef checks into a room at the saloon. The set, with some minor adjustments, is at the centre of the action the following year in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966). Eli Wallach wanders in from the desert over a rickety walkway and heads for the very same saloon. After filming wrapped, the set was taken over by a group of extras and opened to the public as an attraction. Now run by a hotel group, it’s a bonafide theme park (complete with shootouts, swimming pool and zoo) but the iconic film locations are well preserved.

這裡是Carlo Simi搭建的三個西部小鎮佈景中的頭一個,也就是在《獨行俠江湖伏霸》中的El Paso市。Klaus Kinski在這裡的銀行進行監視時, Van Cleef剛入住客棧內。這座佈景略修之作 改,後 接著在第二年用作《獨行俠決鬥地獄門》( 1966)的主場景。Eli Wallach沿著一條搖搖晃晃的木搭小道從漠沙 走過來,走進同一家客棧內。電影拍完後,一群臨時演員接管了這座小鎮佈景,變將它 成一個吸引遊客景的點,向開公眾 放。現在這個地由方 一個酒店集團經營,變成名副其實的主方公園,裡面有槍戰決鬥表演、游泳及物池 動 園,而當年電拍 影的經典場景亦保存得十分完好。


Simi built this town and Mexican pueblo for The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and it has continued as a working location, featuring in Navajo Joe and many French, German and Italian Westerns. Like Oasys Mini-Hollywood, the set was bought by crew, in this case stuntman Rafa Molina and horse trainer Francisco Ardura, whose credits span teaching outlaws to ride to Game of Thrones. Open to the public, it’s now a Wild West village with daily bank robberies, cancan shows and a coach museum with stagecoaches, carts and wagons used in Spaghetti Westerns, along with, rather randomly, a sleigh from Dr Zhivago.

Simi特別為《獨行俠決鬥地獄門》搭了建這座小鎮及墨西哥印第安人村莊的佈景,電影完成後,這裡成為其他電影的拍攝片場奇,《 俠蕩寇誌》及多部法國、德國及意大利品西出 的 部片都曾在這裡拍攝前。跟文的Oasys Mini- Hollywood主方公園一樣,這座佈景被工作人員收購,它由技特 人Rafa Molina及電界影 首屈一指馬訓的 術 練師Francisco Ardura出資購入;後者近期在《權戲力遊 》中指導飾演歹徒的演員騎馬。現在這裡有對外開放的西部村莊,每天舉行搶劫銀行及肯肯舞表演,還有一座馬車博物館,展出在意式西部片中經常出現的驛馬車、敞馬篷 車及運貨馬車等,甚至在《齊瓦哥醫生》內出現過的雪橇,竟然亦在陳列品當中。


Wallach and Eastwood travel by horse and cart to see Father Ramirez at the San Antonio Mission in The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and end up here. The woefully dilapidated old friary farmhouse, standing alone against a backdrop of bare, rocky hills in the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, is instantly recognisable and a port of call on all local film tours. It’s even better known as the scene of a real-life murder that inspired Spanish playwright Federico García Lorca’s 1932 tragedy Blood Wedding.

在《獨行俠決鬥地獄門》中, Wal lach存Eastwood乘車往馬前 San Antoni o Mission傳道會探訪Ramirez神父,結果就來到這個地方。這座日久失修,看上去似乎快要塌倒 的破舊修道院農舍位, 於Cabo de Gata- Níjar Natural Park自然公園,內四周被光禿的山丘圍繞,非常容易辨認,是當地電影旅遊團必到的景點。這裡昔日曾經發少過一宗謀殺,案案件觸發西班牙劇作家Federico García Lorca於1932年成寫悲劇《Blood Wedding》的本劇。


Cue the eerie harmonica. This is the fictional Sweetwater, Utah, from the epic Once Upon a Time in the West (1968) starring Henry Fonda, Charles Bronson – and Claudia Cardinale, who arrives there to start married life at the McBain ranch only to find her new widower husband and his children murdered. Arriving today, she’d find her imposing maroon ranch house is a saloon (hosting shootout shows and selling beer), a sheriff’s office next door and quite a bit of new development. Rumour has it that the wood for the house was recycled from the tavern built for Orson Welles’ Chimes at Midnight, shot in Spain two years before.

這裡就是年1968 的經典西《部片 萬里狂沙萬里仇》中虛構的猶他州小鎮Sweetwater,踏足其中,耳邊彷彿聽到影片開頭那陣令人心寒的口琴聲。本片由Henry Fonda、Charles Bronson及Claudia Cardinale主演,後者是McBain牧場主人新續弦的太太,她來到牧場時,卻發現新婚丈夫和他存前妻所生的兒女全部被殺。若果這位McBain太太今天重訪故地,就會發她年現 當 那座氣派不凡的褐紅色牧場大屋現在是一座酒館(裡面有槍戰表演及賣售 啤酒) ,旁邊是警長的公辦 室,還有不少新增設施。據說用來搭建大屋的木材是以Orson Welles執導的《午夜鐘聲》裡的酒館佈景循環再用,這部電影在《萬里狂沙萬里仇》開拍前兩年於西班牙拍攝。

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