How d’ya like your eggs in the morn­ing? 63 de­grees

HK Magazine - - PAGE 3 -

For­get emul­si­fi­ca­tion, spher­i­fi­ca­tion or cen­trifug­ing. The jour­ney to mod­ernist cook­ing starts with that most ba­sic of pro­teins: a per­fectly poached sous-vide egg. Only a few de­grees sep­a­rate the good from the bad, says Les­lie Yeh

What is a 63-de­gree egg, any­how?

A 63-de­gree egg is placed in a wa­ter bath at 63°C for around 40-45 min­utes, to the point at which the egg white is just cooked, but the yolk is still de­li­ciously creamy and runny. It’s also known as an on­sen egg, as the eggs were tra­di­tion­ally gen­tly poached in Ja­panese on­sen hot springs.

1. Fol­low the Trail

Pre­sen­ta­tion and plat­ing come first at Bibo, the restau­rant ded­i­cated as much to the art of food as to the fla­vor it­self. It’s es­pe­cially the case in the color tri­fecta of the sig­na­ture L’Oeuf Mayo dish (part of the $900 five-course tasting), com­prised of a 64-de­gree egg, home­made mayo and sour­dough bread crumbs. This tasty or­ches­tra­tion uses a Ja­panese Taiy­ouran or­ganic egg, known for its rich, bright or­ange yolk, which adds a pop of color as it swirls like a painter’s pal­ette with the lighter-hued mayo. With sour­dough crumbs scat­tered in a line across one side, it’s like a de­con­structed egg sand­wich— al­beit far more el­e­gant and tasty.

G/F, 163 Hol­ly­wood Rd., She­ung Wan, 2956-3188,

2. On an Egg Roll

Chef Philippe Or­rico has been her­alded for his use of the 63-de­gree egg, which fea­tures promi­nently in sig­na­ture dishes at both of Or­rico’s restau­rants, On Din­ing Kitchen & Lounge and Up­per Mod­ern Bistro. At On Din­ing, the metic­u­lously cooked egg is the fo­cal point of a beau­ti­ful starter, a shim­mer­ing, silky orb sur­rounded by pearl bar­ley risotto made with 4-year aged Comté cheese, wild mush­rooms and foie gras cubes. The ad­di­tion of frogs legs, plump and meaty, amps up the pro­tein fac­tor in this el­e­gant and clas­si­cally French dish ($268).

29/F, 18 On Lan St., Cen­tral, 2174-8100, on­

3. All Yolk’d Up

22 Ships’ 62-de­gree egg mash with mor­cilla ba­con dashi ($108) proves that a few de­grees of sep­a­ra­tion can be the trick to mas­ter­mind­ing the per­fect dish. The near-translu­cent whites and run­nier yolk make this dish a del­i­cate force of na­ture, a vol­cano wait­ing to erupt and engulf the bits of Span­ish blood sausage and potato mash, be­fore pool­ing into the ba­con dashi be­low.

22 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2555-0722,

4. Dig­ging for Eggs

Sit down to a meal at mod­ern Bri­tish restau­rant Aberdeen Street So­cial and you’ll be struck by a dis­tinct earthy el­e­ment to chef Ja­son Ather­ton’s cre­ations, with in­gre­di­ents such as wild mush­rooms, black gar­lic, sea veg­eta­bles and burnt onion ash mak­ing for a meal that’s as sen­sual as it is sump­tu­ous. The 63-de­gree egg with black truf­fle, trompette mush­room crumb and burnt but­ter potato ($198) is a dish that’ll take you for­ag­ing through the woods, as you pick your way through the crumbly soil of shaved mush­rooms and potato that’s slowly bound to­gether by the sticky, smooth egg yolk. It’s a rich in­ter­play of tex­tures and in­gre­di­ents that will leave you hunt­ing around the menu for more.

35 Aberdeen St., Cen­tral, 2866-0300, ab­erdeen­street­so­

5. Sous-vide Spaghetti

It was only a mat­ter of time be­fore some­one de­cided to use a 63-de­gree egg in spaghetti car­bonara. Creami­ness is the goal in First Floor by Life­style Fed­er­a­tion’s 63-de­gree on­sen egg car­bonara ($210), and while the pasta sauce is al­ready for­ti­fied with gal­lons of the good stuff, the real magic hap­pens when the egg yolk breaks and oozes dream­ily over the pasta and ba­con, mak­ing for a cream- and yolk­drenched dou­ble in­dul­gence. Add a bit of acid­ity from the cherry toma­toes, salti­ness from caviar quenelles and pep­pery arugula to round out one of the guilti­est pas­tas in town.

1/F, Baskerville House, 13 Dud­dell St., Cen­tral, 2840-0032, the­first­

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