HK Magazine - - DINING -

In­dian. LG/F, 33 Aberdeen St., Cen­tral, 2447-9998.

This mod­ern In­dian restau­rant is rid­ing the con­tem­po­rary-fu­sion-small-plates trend with style, and rein­vent­ing the im­age of In­dian cui­sine along the way.

HIT With a name mean­ing “chilled­out” in col­lo­quial Hindi, Bin­daas draws in­flu­ences from tra­di­tional street food and In­dian ta­pas, with the bold, spice­laden In­dian fla­vors we all know and love reimag­ined with cool mod­ern twists. The sev puri ($68) was one of our fa­vorite bites of the night—a bite-sized fla­vor bomb with three types of chut­ney and boiled potato sit­ting on fried puri bread, lib­er­ally sprin­kled with crunchy sev chick­pea noo­dles. We mopped up the keema pao ($108), a sa­vory ragu of minced goat meat masala with a side of fluffy Bom­bay-style buns, and also en­joyed the chili chicken “naanza” (naan + pizza), which had an Asian kick from a sweet glaze and wok-tossed pep­pers in ad­di­tion to its In­dian and Ital­ian roots. From the curry menu, the saag gosht ($168) was a gen­er­ous pot of goat meat in a spinach sauce; like the best of In­dian curries, it was dark, murky and full of in­dis­tin­guish­able but po­tent spices. If you have room for dessert, there are four in­trigu­ing milk-cen­tric sweets on of­fer ($78), in­clud­ing saffron milk with rose syrup, and be­tel-fla­vored panna cotta.

MISS If we’re prob­ing for faults, the big spoon­ful of ghee that rested on top of the gar­lic naan was too heavy-handed.

BOT­TOM LINE Bin­daas of­fers a re­fresh­ing take on In­dian cui­sine that stays true to its chilled-out name. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. $$

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