Indian. LG/F, 33 Aberdeen St., Central, 2447-9998.
This modern Indian restaurant is riding the contemporary-fusion-small-plates trend with style, and reinventing the image of Indian cuisine along the way.
HIT With a name meaning “chilledout” in colloquial Hindi, Bindaas draws influences from traditional street food and Indian tapas, with the bold, spiceladen Indian flavors we all know and love reimagined with cool modern twists. The sev puri ($68) was one of our favorite bites of the night—a bite-sized flavor bomb with three types of chutney and boiled potato sitting on fried puri bread, liberally sprinkled with crunchy sev chickpea noodles. We mopped up the keema pao ($108), a savory ragu of minced goat meat masala with a side of fluffy Bombay-style buns, and also enjoyed the chili chicken “naanza” (naan + pizza), which had an Asian kick from a sweet glaze and wok-tossed peppers in addition to its Indian and Italian roots. From the curry menu, the saag gosht ($168) was a generous pot of goat meat in a spinach sauce; like the best of Indian curries, it was dark, murky and full of indistinguishable but potent spices. If you have room for dessert, there are four intriguing milk-centric sweets on offer ($78), including saffron milk with rose syrup, and betel-flavored panna cotta.
MISS If we’re probing for faults, the big spoonful of ghee that rested on top of the garlic naan was too heavy-handed.
BOTTOM LINE Bindaas offers a refreshing take on Indian cuisine that stays true to its chilled-out name. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. $$