HK Magazine - - DINING -

Ital­ian. 11/F, The L. Square, 459-461 Lock­hart Rd., Cause­way Bay, 2658-2128. If you seek out restau­rants for food over am­bi­ence, you’ll feel right at home at In­vol­tini, which serves up ex­cel­lent hand­made pas­tas crafted by ex- 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bom­bana chef Jack Law.

HIT With eight years of ex­pe­ri­ence in one of the great­est Ital­ian kitchens in Hong Kong, you’d ex­pect chef Jack’s hand­made pas­tas to be pretty solid here—and you won’t be dis­ap­pointed. The car­bonara tagli­olini ($148) boasts a glossy yel­low sheen, rich and creamy with a slice of pancetta fat to ramp up the un­health­i­ness fac­tor. We also tried the pork ragu tagli­atelle ($168), which had wide rib­bons cas­cad­ing through a meaty ragu of roasted pork and mush­rooms. The lack of color on the ragu made the ap­pear­ance rather av­er­age; how­ever, the fla­vors were bold and the sprin­kling of fen­nel pollen on top an ex­cel­lent ad­di­tion. Our lamb ($270) fea­tured two pis­ta­chio-crusted chops with a fava bean and mush­room mix­ture and potato slices. The lamb was cooked well, and the pis­ta­chio crust added a bright green pop of color— al­though not a whole lot of fla­vor­ing.

MISS Desserts are an af­ter-thought, with only three choices avail­able. We went for the dessert duo ($128) with yo­gurt panna cotta, tiramisu and gelato; the fla­vors were there, but we were hop­ing for a bit more ex­cite­ment.

BOT­TOM LINE A de­cent place to sat­isfy pasta crav­ings, al­though a touch of re­fine­ment could go a long way in mak­ing this a place we’d put on our reg­u­lar restau­rant ro­ta­tion.

Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 6-10:30pm. $$$-$$$$

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