Jamie’s Italian (TST)
Italian. Shop 412, 4/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 17 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3758-3333. The Hong Kong outpost of Jamie’s didn’t get off to a rip-roaring start, with critiques ranging from the interminable queues to the lackluster flavor and execution. Two years on there’s a second location in the mix, and we’ve heard that the kitchen has made improvements to salvage its cooked reputation—this we had to see for ourselves.
HIT The TST location boasts a tavernlike vibe with exposed ceilings, dark leather banquettes and graffiti murals depicting Hong Kong’s yesteryears. We started with the salmon super food salad ($188), a new item featuring strips of beetroot-cured salmon, broccoli and grains. This beefed (or should we say “beet-ed”) up salad was a hearty starter and the beetroot cure added a sweet, earthy flavor and a dazzling pink-orange shade to the fish. The mussel & squid spaghetti nero ($188) was swimming with tender octopus chunks, mussels, and soft tomatoes that still held their sweetness.
MISS The Gennaro’s Italian Sausage pizza ($178) was a let-down as the cheese had formed a thick crust on top of the dough, and we couldn’t detect the balsamic onions and olives listed on the menu. Skinny fries ($48) were delicious, but the portion size was skimpy.
BOTTOM LINE The kitchen seems to have worked through its major offenses, and there are definite gems to be had— but we’re still waiting for the chefs to really hone the details before we’ll make Jamie’s a regular on our rota.
Open Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. $$