A Side / B Side
Western. 53 Sai St., Sheung Wan, 2857-5055. A farm-to-table concept, A Side B Side is inspired by old vinyl records—and similarly the menu flips from day to night, with a handful of items on each.
HIT We didn’t quite get the vinyl concept (for one, there were no vinyl records in sight), but we liked the clean setting of this 22-seater with menus written on teal-colored walls. We started with the pork rillettes ($70) which were paired with soft and fluffy bread from Po’s Atelier that went great with the rich, albeit slightly too salty pâté. The restaurant only uses organic vegetable produce from local farms and the pan- fried cauliflower ($95) gave us a tingling sensation from the successful marriage of curry powder and parmigiano. For mains, the grilled chicken ($200) was a delight: a charred exterior containing a juicy reared-in-Hong Kong yellow chicken on a bed of cauliflower purée. The hunky New Zealand striploin steak ($250) garnished with chopped shallots was chargrilled to a perfect medium rare. It was juicy and tender, but a tad too salty. The soy milk coconut panna cotta ($85) was a light palate-cleanser after all the bold flavors.
MISS The kitchen seemed to have a little problem handling acidity: The mustard in the cauliflower was too generous, which slightly overpowered the dish, while the pickles that came with the rillettes were again far too tart.
BOTTOM LINE A little more attention to seasoning will have us (and every hipster around) lining out the door. Open Tue-Sun noon-midnight. $$$