HK Magazine - - DINING -

Mediter­ranean. G/F, 4 Ship St., Wan Chai, 2836-0699. Span­ish restau­rant Quemo has re­lo­cated and re­branded to QMO, ap­par­ently stand­ing for “Qu­rios­ity Meets Ob­ses­sion,” with a menu that takes in­spi­ra­tion from up and down the Mediter­ranean.

HIT Off the bat, QMO gets ma­jor points for serv­ing up healthy sized por­tions: The lunch set costs $138-268 for two to four cour­ses, but you could eas­ily share one four-course set be­tween two peo­ple and leave suf­fi­ciently sated. Dishes here can best be de­scribed as stan­dard yet wellex­e­cuted—noth­ing will blow you away, but for the price and por­tion-size, we can’t re­ally com­plain. Lin­guine was cooked al dente with a dozen or so plump clams and zuc­chini in a light dress­ing. The risotto was com­fort in a bowl—in­di­vid­u­ally sep­a­rated grains that still re­tained their chewy tex­ture, sim­mered in a umami-laden broth and topped with raw mush­room shav­ings. The sole fil­let was ten­der and came topped with a romesco sauce, while the roasted chicken (two chicken thighs) were also cooked beau­ti­fully and would sat­isfy any poul­try lover.

MISS The Cae­sar salad was the big­gest dis­ap­point­ment: the chicken was chewy, the crou­tons stale, and the cherry toma­toes didn’t be­long there. The sauce tasted like the bland bot­tled va­ri­ety: we would have liked some nuance from chopped an­chovies or an acidic squeeze of lemon.

BOT­TOM LINE For fa­mil­iar, well-rounded fla­vors and enough food to quell a rag­ing ap­petite, we’d hap­pily give QMO a sec­ond go. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm,

5-10:30pm. $$

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