No. 5 Ital­ian

HK Magazine - - DINING -

Ital­ian. Shop P311, Podium 3, World Trade Cen­tre, 280 Glouces­ter Rd., Cause­way Bay, 2554-2228. Once just a cozy neigh­bor­hood Ital­ian joint in Tai Hang, this Miche­lin-rec­om­mended res­tau­rant has opened a se­cond lo­ca­tion at World Trade Cen­tre.

HIT Pas­tas and piz­zas are made fresh in-house ev­ery day. The sig­na­ture Johnny’s Style pizza ($138 for an 8” ap­pe­tizer size) was a sim­ple com­bi­na­tion of thinly sliced, melt-in-your-mouth Parma ham and fresh arugula on a crispy thin wood-fired crust. Sea urchin tagli­atelle ($198) had a siz­able por­tion of deep or­ange uni, and its sweet fla­vor com­ple­mented the mush­room and truf­fle fla­vors. The wagyu cheek pap­pardelle ($198) had ten­der, fall-apart meat.

MISS Sadly, each dish we or­dered had a glar­ing flaw. The buf­falo moz­zarella on the pizza turned out to be the bland melted kind. The uni pasta was swim­ming in too much sauce. The pap­pardelle noo­dles with the wagyu were clumped to­gether, washed in an unin­spir­ing, strangely nutty sauce. The kitchen seems to have an un­healthy fix­a­tion with truf­fle oil, be­cause you’ll sniff it ev­ery­where, even when it’s un­called for in a dish.

BOT­TOM LINE While some fla­vors are crowd-pleasers, un­even cook­ing means we’ll look else­where for our com­fort food fix. Open Mon-Sun 11:30am-11pm. $$

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