Kaum

HK Magazine - - DINING -

In­done­sian. G/F, 100 Third St., Sai Ying Pun, 2858-6066. We weren’t sure what to ex­pect when we heard that Potato Head was bring­ing its re­laxed trop­i­cal vibes to the cramped neigh­bor­hood of Sai Ying Pun—but the fun-lov­ing PTT group has hit the mark with Kaum, com­bin­ing soul­ful is­land cui­sine with art, mu­sic and de­sign to cre­ate a worth­while life­style des­ti­na­tion.

HIT With hang­ing plant boxes, hand­painted ceil­ing pan­els and com­mu­nal tables, Kaum con­veys just the right amount of trop­i­cal cool while blend­ing in to its ur­ban sur­rounds. Starters are rea­son­ably priced: The Gado Gado ($45) has crispy blanched veg­eta­bles coated in a sa­vory peanut dress­ing with boiled eggs and crispy prawn crack­ers—a great start to the meal. The pull-apart beef ren­dang ($85) was dense with spices and thick co­conut milk. We also en­joyed the ce­viche-es­que Gohu Ikan Tuna ($70) dressed in re­fresh­ing cala­mansi and co­conut oil. The Pa’pi­ong Ayam chicken ($250) show­cased the na­tive style of cook­ing in a hol­lowed-out bam­boo stick, with the juicy chicken tex­tured with grated co­conut. A side or­der of sam­bal sauces ($60 for a tray of four) ramped up the flavors.

MISS We had high hopes for the Babi Gul­ing roasted pig ($258), but were let down by the lack of crispy skin. The nasi goreng rice ($118) was a tad salty, es­pe­cially when com­bined with more de­li­cious sam­bal.

BOT­TOM LINE The next best thing to fly­ing to Bali, Kaum cel­e­brates In­done­sia’s di­verse culi­nary land­scape— with those sig­na­ture PTT vibes thrown in. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. $$-$$$

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