Indonesian. G/F, 100 Third St., Sai Ying Pun, 2858-6066. We weren’t sure what to expect when we heard that Potato Head was bringing its relaxed tropical vibes to the cramped neighborhood of Sai Ying Pun—but the fun-loving PTT group has hit the mark with Kaum, combining soulful island cuisine with art, music and design to create a worthwhile lifestyle destination.
HIT With hanging plant boxes, handpainted ceiling panels and communal tables, Kaum conveys just the right amount of tropical cool while blending in to its urban surrounds. Starters are reasonably priced: The Gado Gado ($45) has crispy blanched vegetables coated in a savory peanut dressing with boiled eggs and crispy prawn crackers—a great start to the meal. The pull-apart beef rendang ($85) was dense with spices and thick coconut milk. We also enjoyed the ceviche-esque Gohu Ikan Tuna ($70) dressed in refreshing calamansi and coconut oil. The Pa’piong Ayam chicken ($250) showcased the native style of cooking in a hollowed-out bamboo stick, with the juicy chicken textured with grated coconut. A side order of sambal sauces ($60 for a tray of four) ramped up the flavors.
MISS We had high hopes for the Babi Guling roasted pig ($258), but were let down by the lack of crispy skin. The nasi goreng rice ($118) was a tad salty, especially when combined with more delicious sambal.
BOTTOM LINE The next best thing to flying to Bali, Kaum celebrates Indonesia’s diverse culinary landscape— with those signature PTT vibes thrown in. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 5-10:30pm. $$-$$$