Restau­rant Osaka

HK Magazine - - DINING -

Ja­panese. G/F-1/F, Ash­ley Build­ing, 14 Ash­ley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-3323. Restau­rant Osaka has been around for a while—43 years, in fact. But the dé­cor doesn’t feel run-down, just pleas­antly old-school as you climb the steps onto the first floor of this Ash­ley Road eatery.

HIT A cold tofu ($62) dish was a large block of pleas­antly firm bean curd, topped with bonito shav­ings, spring onion and grated ginger.

A red tuna hand roll ($80) had a de­cent amount of maguro tuna, al­though it was pretty pricey nonethe­less. Teriyaki beef ($172) was a whole steak, not just a few slices of beef, and was very nicely mar­i­nated and cooked to a spot-on blush­ing pink all the way through. Two skewers of Ja­panese pep­pers ($50) were OK, but hardly burst­ing with charred fla­vor.

MISS The stan­dard sashimi plat­ter ($398) was very av­er­age in­deed. The scal­lops were soft and sweet and the shrimps were de­li­ciously creamy. But the sal­mon, tuna and yel­low­tail sea bream were just ac­cept­able: ed­i­ble, sure, but not of the qual­ity we’d ex­pect from a restau­rant. Frankly, we’ve had bet­ter cuts from su­per­mar­ket coun­ters. The sal­mon roe was pretty much taste-free, and the squid was just rub­bery. Pan-fried gy­oza dumplings ($68) were fine but a lit­tle lack­ing in fla­vor.

BOT­TOM LINE Given that it’s been around for 43 years, Osaka’s Restau­rant’s Ja­panese fare must de­liver for many cus­tomers—but on our trip, we were left sadly dis­ap­pointed. Ash­ley Road is full of restau­rants, and next time we’ll be pick­ing some­where else. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. $$$

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