Japanese. G/F-1/F, Ashley Building, 14 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2376-3323. Restaurant Osaka has been around for a while—43 years, in fact. But the décor doesn’t feel run-down, just pleasantly old-school as you climb the steps onto the first floor of this Ashley Road eatery.
HIT A cold tofu ($62) dish was a large block of pleasantly firm bean curd, topped with bonito shavings, spring onion and grated ginger.
A red tuna hand roll ($80) had a decent amount of maguro tuna, although it was pretty pricey nonetheless. Teriyaki beef ($172) was a whole steak, not just a few slices of beef, and was very nicely marinated and cooked to a spot-on blushing pink all the way through. Two skewers of Japanese peppers ($50) were OK, but hardly bursting with charred flavor.
MISS The standard sashimi platter ($398) was very average indeed. The scallops were soft and sweet and the shrimps were deliciously creamy. But the salmon, tuna and yellowtail sea bream were just acceptable: edible, sure, but not of the quality we’d expect from a restaurant. Frankly, we’ve had better cuts from supermarket counters. The salmon roe was pretty much taste-free, and the squid was just rubbery. Pan-fried gyoza dumplings ($68) were fine but a little lacking in flavor.
BOTTOM LINE Given that it’s been around for 43 years, Osaka’s Restaurant’s Japanese fare must deliver for many customers—but on our trip, we were left sadly disappointed. Ashley Road is full of restaurants, and next time we’ll be picking somewhere else. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. $$$