Cull ‘N’ Pistol
Western/Seafood. Shop GA1-3, 55 Tai Hong St., Lei King Wan, 2513-0199. The latest addition to the string of seafront restos in SoHo East, Cull ‘N’ Pistol dives into the seafood theme, from the chalkboard sketches of sea creatures on the walls to the plates whimsically decorated with octopuses.
HIT As we soaked up the sea views across the street, we kicked things off with a selection of fresh oysters: The Cherrystone ($56), rimmed in a lighter colored mantle edge, was delightfully meaty with a crunchy bite; while the Irish rock ($48), with a lingering taste of seawater, would be great for those who are fans of the brinier tang of shellfish. Dip them in the cocktail sauce to balance out the mineral zing, or not—they’re just as good on their own. Next came the clam bake ($399), a pan brimming with lobsters, clams and mussels—all bathed in a rich tomato shellfish broth. While the clams and mussels were on the small side, the highlight was undoubtedly the tender and sweet lobster, conveniently broken down for easy eating. The sides of cornon-the-cob and fingerling potatoes were bursting with flavor, having absorbed all the delicious seafood juices. A bucket of earthy and chunky beetroot fries ($52) rounded out the meal nicely.
MISS The California fish tacos ($168) had a great filling of fried fish, tomato salsa, and tangy smoked aioli; however, the taco shell was overly chewy and thick, and we were full after half a taco. The deep fried cinnamon ice cream ($62) was overwhelming with its thick plain batter and sickly sweet ice cream.
BOTTOM LINE Battered and taco dishes aside, Cull ‘N’ Pistol is a notable addition to SoHo East with a great selection of fresh seafood and a seaside setting to match. Open Mon-Fri noon-midnight,
Sat-Sun 11am-1am; $$-$$$