Cull ‘N’ Pis­tol

HK Magazine - - DINING -

Western/Seafood. Shop GA1-3, 55 Tai Hong St., Lei King Wan, 2513-0199. The lat­est ad­di­tion to the string of seafront restos in SoHo East, Cull ‘N’ Pis­tol dives into the seafood theme, from the chalk­board sketches of sea crea­tures on the walls to the plates whim­si­cally dec­o­rated with oc­to­puses.

HIT As we soaked up the sea views across the street, we kicked things off with a se­lec­tion of fresh oys­ters: The Cher­ry­stone ($56), rimmed in a lighter col­ored man­tle edge, was de­light­fully meaty with a crunchy bite; while the Irish rock ($48), with a lin­ger­ing taste of sea­wa­ter, would be great for those who are fans of the brinier tang of shell­fish. Dip them in the cock­tail sauce to bal­ance out the min­eral zing, or not—they’re just as good on their own. Next came the clam bake ($399), a pan brim­ming with lob­sters, clams and mus­sels—all bathed in a rich tomato shell­fish broth. While the clams and mus­sels were on the small side, the high­light was un­doubt­edly the ten­der and sweet lob­ster, con­ve­niently bro­ken down for easy eat­ing. The sides of cornon-the-cob and fin­ger­ling pota­toes were burst­ing with fla­vor, hav­ing ab­sorbed all the de­li­cious seafood juices. A bucket of earthy and chunky beet­root fries ($52) rounded out the meal nicely.

MISS The Cal­i­for­nia fish tacos ($168) had a great fill­ing of fried fish, tomato salsa, and tangy smoked aioli; how­ever, the taco shell was overly chewy and thick, and we were full af­ter half a taco. The deep fried cin­na­mon ice cream ($62) was over­whelm­ing with its thick plain bat­ter and sickly sweet ice cream.

BOT­TOM LINE Bat­tered and taco dishes aside, Cull ‘N’ Pis­tol is a no­table ad­di­tion to SoHo East with a great se­lec­tion of fresh seafood and a sea­side set­ting to match. Open Mon-Fri noon-mid­night,

Sat-Sun 11am-1am; $$-$$$

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