Morty’s Del­i­catessen

HK Magazine - - DINING -

New York Deli. Shop 2-14, LG/F, Jar­dine House 1, Jar­dine House, 1 Con­naught Pl., Cen­tral, 3665-0900. Nes­tled in the base­ment of Jar­dine House, Morty’s is ide­ally si­t­u­ated to draw in the hordes of of­fice drones in the area. But in­stead of fran­chise slop, this deli keeps it fresh with a fo­cused se­lec­tion of sand­wiches and sides.

HIT The shop spe­cial­izes in pas­trami (cured and smoked in-house), al­though there are also turkey and chicken sand­wiches as well as bagels on of­fer. The Reuben ($118) is a no-brainer: smoked pas­trami, sauer­kraut and thou­sand is­land dress­ing on home­made rye. The base of the sandwich got pretty soggy with the juice soak­ing down­ward, but it was de­lec­ta­ble none­the­less; the pas­trami rich and moist, and set off by the pi­quant sauer­kraut and dress­ing. The Cobb salad ($88) was colos­sal, with a mul­ti­tude of in­gre­di­ents (av­o­cado, cherry toma­toes, red pep­per, grated cheese, car­rots, smoked chicken, egg and onion) that man­aged to stay crisp in the light French dress­ing. A side of coleslaw ($28) was a pared-down ver­sion of the deli fa­vorite, com­prised al­most wholly of red cab­bage. This sort of sim­plic­ity is ap­peal­ing, though it may dis­ap­point the more ad­ven­tur­ous ‘slaw hounds.

MISS It goes with­out say­ing that the spread is meat-heavy, so veg­e­tar­i­ans should stay away. The base­ment lo­ca­tion means a lack of nat­u­ral light, and makes Morty’s best saved for a rainy day.

BOT­TOM LINE Morty’s does a few things very well, with­out bells or whis­tles, and un­en­cum­bered by culi­nary fads. We’ll be back the next time we’re crav­ing more slow­cooked pas­trami on rye.

Open Mon-Fri 8am-9pm;

Sat 11am-8pm. $-$$

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