NEW AND NOTED

HK Magazine - - DINING -

He’s Baaaaaack

Ital­ian eatery Ee Da Le (3/F, 8 Lyn­d­hurst Ter­race, Cen­tral, 2896-1838)—the highly-an­tic­i­pated first of four am­bi­tious restau­rant open­ings from the man and self-pro­claimed legend him­self, Har­lan Gold­stein—is now open on Lyn­d­hurst Ter­race, and one thing’s for sure: there’s no question who’s in charge here. From the col­or­ful cast of staff to the gaudy opera skirt-in­spired hang­ing lamps and Har­lan him­self do­ing the cu­caracha at the pass as he sprin­kles some parme­san on a hot plate of pasta, the place is brim­ming with char­ac­ter—no less than what we’d ex­pect from a chef who’s loud, brash at­ti­tude has gar­nered him more me­dia at­ten­tion in the last decade than most chefs get in a life­time. In­spired by the coast of south­ern Italy, the rus­tic menu is bro­ken down into hand­crafted pas­tas, meats, seafood dishes and sides, with fam­ily-style por­tions made for shar­ing. There are some tweaks to the menu that need re­fin­ing—such as an eye-wa­ter­ing $488 red prawn lin­guine—but sev­eral dishes are worth try­ing, in­clud­ing the char-grilled oc­to­pus with sliv­ers of so­pres­sata, Tag­giasca olives and potato crema ($168); and the “Mama’s Meat­balls” ($108) which, de­spite the ho hum name, are juicy and fla­vor­ful with three types of meat: veal, beef and pork sausage. Af­ter open­ing for only a few weeks, the place is al­ready buzzing with cu­ri­ous Har­lan fans—we’ll be back to watch the spec­ta­cle un­fold for our­selves, prob­a­bly with a ne­groni or two in hand.

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