HK Magazine - - DINING -

Euro­pean. 4/F, Ovolo South­side, 64 Wong Chuk Hang Rd., 3460-8157. Out of the dearth of food op­tions in Wong Chuk Hang, Cirqle at Ovolo South­side is like a mi­rage in a desert, serv­ing up mod­ern Euro­pean fare in a ca­sual, semi-al­fresco set­ting.

HIT Start­ing off with a tapas-style ap­pe­tizer, the crispy quail egg ($75) in­cluded five breaded, semi-runny eggs, topped with maple ba­con chunks and mi­cro­greens. It tasted great on its own, but the pond of sriracha mayo that it was sit­ting on over­pow­ered the dish. The bolog­nese ($120; made with a pork, lamb and beef sauce) with riga­toni was al dente and a solid crowd pleaser, though a touch more pecorino wouldn’t have hurt. The sau­teed mush­rooms and gai lan in soy but­ter ($48; ac­tu­ally soy sauce and but­ter) was an in­ter­est­ing fu­sion, and the gai lan re­tained a fresh crunch. We also en­joyed the unique smoked eel car­bonara ($135), as the sweet teriyaki fla­vor of the eel and its soft tex­ture bal­anced nicely with the eggi­ness of the car­bonara sauce. How­ever, it felt strange slurp­ing down an Ital­ian classic with thick and heavy Chi­ne­ses­tyle noo­dles.

MISS The seat­ing ar­range­ment on the ter­race out­side may be pleas­ant and even ro­man­tic in the evenings, but the in­door space feels slightly cafe­te­ria-like, with plas­tic chair seat­ing and bright flu­o­res­cent lights.

BOT­TOM LINE There’s noth­ing that breaks the bank—or nec­es­sar­ily breaks bound­aries—at Cirqle, which makes it an easy and re­li­able choice if you’re check­ing out gal­leries nearby or stay­ing at the ho­tel. Open daily 6:30-10am, noon-3pm, 6-11pm. $$

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