HK Magazine - - DINING -

French Deli. 26 Peel St., Cen­tral, 2561-3336. We named Cochin one of the best new restau­rants of 2016 so far, and for good rea­son—the ca­sual bistro-style French deli serves up un­pre­ten­tious com­fort food along­side a tempt­ing se­lec­tion of del­i­cate tinned goods, cheeses and char­cu­terie.

HIT We dug first into a cold cuts se­lec­tion ($245 large), which came with four types of cured meats, and small pots of cor­ni­chons, pick­led mush­rooms and carrot. The por­tion was not large, but the qual­ity of the char­cu­terie was im­pec­ca­ble. An­other small but sub­stan­tial starter was the foie gras crème brulee, with a toasty golden brown ceil­ing that cracked oblig­ingly to re­veal the smooth, rich liver un­der­neath. The lamb neck

MISS The rab­bit slid­ers ($115) were packed full of fla­vor, but the por­tion was so tiny we could barely di­vide it into four pieces. Ser­vice was spotty once the restau­rant be­gan to fill up, and we had is­sues get­ting our server’s at­ten­tion sev­eral times.

BOT­TOM LINE Cochin has upped the stan­dard for bistro fare in Hong Kong—and we can only hope other restau­rants take note and fol­low suit.

Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-3pm; 6-11pm. $$$

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