French. Stage 5, Shop G514, Tai Yue Avenue, Hing On Maison, Taikoo Shing, 2446-1598. Situated just beneath the glittering blue obelisk that is One Island East, Eiffel Bistro markets itself as a genuine Parisian bistro for comforting, casual French fare.
HIT We started off with the beef carpaccio with rocket and parmesan ($118). Very finely sliced with a little radish, this turned out to be a fresh, inviting appetizer. We got a bottle of inexpensive Fleur & Couleurs Pinot Noir ($298) to go along with it: Though fine-boned and somewhat tinny, it was an acceptable accompaniment. The small beef tartare ($108/$198) was one of the saucier, creamier variations we’ve seen: The beef was fresh, and it boasted a rich piquancy with plenty of capers and cornichons. Fries on the side came out crisp, though overly salted.
MISS Service was friendly but unskilled: Several un-ordered dishes arrived and were hurriedly whisked away; the table was cleared in a haphazard, chaotic fashion; and though the restaurant was far from busy, the staff seemed skittish and agitated. Tap water tasted as though it had come out of a drain. The seared tuna steak ($218), while decent quality fish, was covered in a thick layer of flavorless, desiccated sesame seeds, recalling gritty cardboard. The oily, stodgy cabbage and bacon that came with it completely overpowered any of the delicate flavor the fish might have had. It was borderline inedible.
BOTTOM LINE If you find yourself in
Tai Koo with a severe craving for an edible steak tartare and a decent glass of vino, Eiffel Bistro will sort you right out. Any more than that, and you’ll want to look elsewhere. Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10:30pm. $$-$$$