Eif­fel Bistro

HK Magazine - - DINING -

French. Stage 5, Shop G514, Tai Yue Av­enue, Hing On Mai­son, Taikoo Shing, 2446-1598. Sit­u­ated just be­neath the glit­ter­ing blue obelisk that is One Is­land East, Eif­fel Bistro mar­kets it­self as a gen­uine Parisian bistro for com­fort­ing, ca­sual French fare.

HIT We started off with the beef carpac­cio with rocket and parme­san ($118). Very finely sliced with a lit­tle radish, this turned out to be a fresh, invit­ing ap­pe­tizer. We got a bot­tle of in­ex­pen­sive Fleur & Couleurs Pinot Noir ($298) to go along with it: Though fine-boned and some­what tinny, it was an ac­cept­able ac­com­pa­ni­ment. The small beef tartare ($108/$198) was one of the saucier, creamier vari­a­tions we’ve seen: The beef was fresh, and it boasted a rich pi­quancy with plenty of capers and cor­ni­chons. Fries on the side came out crisp, though overly salted.

MISS Ser­vice was friendly but un­skilled: Sev­eral un-or­dered dishes ar­rived and were hur­riedly whisked away; the ta­ble was cleared in a hap­haz­ard, chaotic fash­ion; and though the restau­rant was far from busy, the staff seemed skit­tish and ag­i­tated. Tap wa­ter tasted as though it had come out of a drain. The seared tuna steak ($218), while de­cent qual­ity fish, was cov­ered in a thick layer of fla­vor­less, des­ic­cated sesame seeds, re­call­ing gritty card­board. The oily, stodgy cab­bage and ba­con that came with it com­pletely over­pow­ered any of the del­i­cate fla­vor the fish might have had. It was bor­der­line ined­i­ble.

BOT­TOM LINE If you find your­self in

Tai Koo with a se­vere crav­ing for an ed­i­ble steak tartare and a de­cent glass of vino, Eif­fel Bistro will sort you right out. Any more than that, and you’ll want to look else­where. Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10:30pm. $$-$$$

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