HK Magazine - - DINING -

French. 41 El­gin St., Cen­tral, 2152-2872. Gen­er­ally known for their bold, wellde­fined con­cepts, Belon is an out­lier in the Black Sheep Restau­rants port­fo­lio in both char­ac­ter (sub­tle and pared-back) and price (the most ex­pen­sive yet).

HIT Glitzy gim­micks aside, Belon rests solely on the cook­ing chops of its chef—James Henry, pre­vi­ously of the renowned Bones in Paris. We whet­ted our ap­petite with the nat­u­rally leav­ened coun­try-style bread ($48)—a de­li­cious dark and rugged loaf with a dense, crack­ling crust and com­plex fla­vor; slathered with Nor­mandy but­ter, this was a great start to the meal. Belon’s menu changes with the sea­sons and the pine

MISS Bits of the chicken breast veered on the dry side, and we would have liked a saucer of jus ver­sus the thin layer that coated the bot­tom of the pan. Our oyster tartare ($128) was a clever com­bi­na­tion of chopped Nor­mandy oys­ters topped with an oyster foam, but we found the por­tion size mea­ger. In fact, over­all sizes seemed small for the prices we were pay­ing.

BOT­TOM LINE The value-for-money is not as ev­i­dent as other Black Sheep es­tab­lish­ments, but the food is hon­est, con­tem­pla­tive, and a treat for those look­ing for a re­fined French meal. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-late. $$$$

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