French. 41 Elgin St., Central, 2152-2872. Generally known for their bold, welldefined concepts, Belon is an outlier in the Black Sheep Restaurants portfolio in both character (subtle and pared-back) and price (the most expensive yet).
HIT Glitzy gimmicks aside, Belon rests solely on the cooking chops of its chef—James Henry, previously of the renowned Bones in Paris. We whetted our appetite with the naturally leavened country-style bread ($48)—a delicious dark and rugged loaf with a dense, crackling crust and complex flavor; slathered with Normandy butter, this was a great start to the meal. Belon’s menu changes with the seasons and the pine
MISS Bits of the chicken breast veered on the dry side, and we would have liked a saucer of jus versus the thin layer that coated the bottom of the pan. Our oyster tartare ($128) was a clever combination of chopped Normandy oysters topped with an oyster foam, but we found the portion size meager. In fact, overall sizes seemed small for the prices we were paying.
BOTTOM LINE The value-for-money is not as evident as other Black Sheep establishments, but the food is honest, contemplative, and a treat for those looking for a refined French meal. Open Tue-Sun 6:30pm-late. $$$$