Rhoda

HK Magazine - - DINING -

West­ern. 345 Des Voeux Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2177-5050. It was a gift from the culi­nary gods that led chef Nate Green to leave his post at 22 Ships to pur­sue a solo ven­ture. With the brains and back­ing of JIA group, Rhoda is a culi­nary tour de force.

HIT Chef Nate has cook­ing chops, but it’s the in­ten­tion be­hind each dish at Rhoda that re­ally makes an im­pres­sion. A smooth chicken liver dip ($38) was the best we’ve ever had: smooth and vel­vety without feel­ing heavy, ac­com­pa­nied by del­i­cate crispy taro chips; the com­pli­men­tary Sun­tory dark ale beer bread pulled apart in a waft of aro­matic, smoky fla­vors, com­ple­mented per­fectly by the briny nori but­ter; and the thinly sliced Hokkaido scal­lops ($198) got a re­fresh­ing lift from grape­fruit and pick­led gin­ger. The next few dishes hit it out of the park: the charred corn with clams, slow-cooked egg and kat­suobushi ($158) was creamy, crispy, smoky and burst­ing with umami all at once; while the Brink’s free-range chicken ($518) boasted a golden, slightly charred skin with juicy and ten­der meat swim­ming in a fra­grant gin­ger dress­ing.

MISS The pop­u­lar slow-cooked oc­to­pus with cu­cum­ber and mint has been re­placed with a fall-in­spired ver­sion with chorizo and red wine sauce ($258). Un­for­tu­nately, the dish was muggy and un­der­whelm­ing. But what’s one miss in a pa­rade of out­stand­ing dishes?

BOT­TOM LINE Nate Green has put his heart and soul into the menu at Rhoda, and it shows: without a doubt, one of the best new restau­rants of 2016. Open Tue-Fri 6pm-mid­night,

Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-mid­night,

Sun noon-11pm. $$$$

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