Western. 345 Des Voeux Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2177-5050. It was a gift from the culinary gods that led chef Nate Green to leave his post at 22 Ships to pursue a solo venture. With the brains and backing of JIA group, Rhoda is a culinary tour de force.
HIT Chef Nate has cooking chops, but it’s the intention behind each dish at Rhoda that really makes an impression. A smooth chicken liver dip ($38) was the best we’ve ever had: smooth and velvety without feeling heavy, accompanied by delicate crispy taro chips; the complimentary Suntory dark ale beer bread pulled apart in a waft of aromatic, smoky flavors, complemented perfectly by the briny nori butter; and the thinly sliced Hokkaido scallops ($198) got a refreshing lift from grapefruit and pickled ginger. The next few dishes hit it out of the park: the charred corn with clams, slow-cooked egg and katsuobushi ($158) was creamy, crispy, smoky and bursting with umami all at once; while the Brink’s free-range chicken ($518) boasted a golden, slightly charred skin with juicy and tender meat swimming in a fragrant ginger dressing.
MISS The popular slow-cooked octopus with cucumber and mint has been replaced with a fall-inspired version with chorizo and red wine sauce ($258). Unfortunately, the dish was muggy and underwhelming. But what’s one miss in a parade of outstanding dishes?
BOTTOM LINE Nate Green has put his heart and soul into the menu at Rhoda, and it shows: without a doubt, one of the best new restaurants of 2016. Open Tue-Fri 6pm-midnight,
Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight,
Sun noon-11pm. $$$$