MIX CRAFT

With be­spoke cock­tails in breath­tak­ing sur­round­ings, J.Boroski is one of Hong Kong’s most in­no­va­tive bars | 在唯美景致包圍下品嚐特製雞尾酒,J.Boroski不愧為香港其中一間最前衛創新的酒吧

Home Journal - - LIVING GOOD TASTE - BY MERCEDES HUT­TON PHO­TOG­RA­PHY EDGAR TAPAN

The Fra­grant Har­bour’s ro­mance with cock­tails be­gan years ago in a sul­try ho­tel bar, and for too long it con­tin­ued that way, con­fined to clan­des­tine en­coun­ters in can­dlelit drink­ing dens. How­ever, over the past decade or so the re­la­tion­ship has be­come not only ac­cepted, but cel­e­brated, with so­phis­ti­cated sip­pers seek­ing well-crafted con­coc­tions far be­yond the bound­aries of fives­tar es­tab­lish­ments. In­deed, some of the finest cock­tails to­day can be found all the way from Taikoo to Tsim Sha Tsui, but few places have pushed tra­di­tional bar bound­aries fur­ther than mix­ul­tant Joseph Boroski’s first foray into the lo­cal land­scape, J.Boroski.

香港與雞尾酒的羅曼史多年前自誘人酒店酒吧油然散放,這種情況持續了好一陣子,如此情調都被限制於暗黑進行的燭光美飲熱點。過去十數年,這種關係不但廣為接納,更大獲推崇,眾多要求獨到的美飲愛好者已密密尋找五星級集團以外的細緻品酒聚腳點。今天,部分最佳雞尾酒也可於太古以至尖沙咀地段品嚐得到,但

Lo­cated in the heart of Cen­tral down a dark al­ley and be­hind an unas­sum­ing en­trance (look out for the scarab bee­tle graf­fiti), J.Boroski in­vites you to leave any pre­con­cep­tions at the door. Once inside, pull back the leather cur­tains and you are greeted by a se­duc­tive, in­ti­mate space with curves where there should be cor­ners that soften an oth­er­wise de­cid­edly mas­cu­line en­vi­ron­ment. As your eyes ad­just to the low light they’ll un­doubt­edly be drawn to the ceil­ing – one half of which is dec­o­rated with a pha­lanx of scarab bee­tles. (Per­haps it should be men­tioned that this is not a space for the squea­mish or those suf­fer­ing from in­sec­to­pho­bia; there’s even one seat­ing area lined with taran­tula.)

That the in­te­rior acts as such a con­ver­sa­tion starter is no accident; it is the work of Aus­tralian de­signer Ash­ley Sut­ton, the man who is also be­hind the oth­er­worldly aes­thet­ics of Iron Fairies and Ophe­lia, both of which, along with J.Boroski, came to Hong Kong cour­tesy of Din­ing Con­cepts. Ash­ley is a mas­ter of cre­at­ing vis­ual won­der­lands, and J.Boroski was con­ceived to re­flect the pas­sions of the man af­ter which it is named: science, the study of in­sects and, of course, cock­tails.

The lat­ter is the real rea­son that peo­ple seek to pa­tro­n­ise this bar over the mul­ti­tude of oth­ers in the vicin­ity – it is renowned for the qual­ity of its drinks. And af­ter ac­cli­ma­tis­ing to the unusual adorn­ments, you’ll no­tice that there are no black­boards declar­ing dis­counts or table當中只有少數地方能如調酒師Joseph Boroski首次進軍本土市場的J.Boroski般敢於推進傳統酒吧界限。

走在中環重心一道暗黑小街上、推過低調大門(找到甲蟲塗鴉即可),J.Boroski就在眼前,隨即把你帶到門後另一新世界。甫內進,推開皮簾就看到一處曲線優美的親暱角落,大概是用來緩和剛陽魅力環境。這刻,你的眼睛理應正好適應了低光度,自自然然又會被一半鋪滿了甲蟲的天花裝飾吸引。(溫馨提示:容易大驚小怪或恐懼昆蟲的人士也不適合前來;有一座位範圍更列滿狼蛛呢。)

室內裝潢定必引發無限話題:這就是澳洲設計師Ash­ley Sut­ton的佳作,也就是Iron Fairies和Ophe­li­a背後的創作主腦,兩者跟J.Boroski也多虧Din­ing Con­cept­s得以進駐香港。Ash­ley擅長打造夢幻視覺元素,J.Boroski就正好能反映這位魅力店主的熱情所在:科學、對昆蟲的研讀與雞尾酒。

飲品的出眾品質是人們不斷前往光顧的主因。除了被非主流裝飾元素所吸引之外,你更會發現這兒根本不設任何黑板或桌上小牌提示Happy Hours時段,基本上,此處不設任何告示。Joseph的雞尾酒顧問服務就是在於由調酒師和侍應測試你的口味,然後再推斷你的個人喜好,最後調製出一杯專為你而設的美味特飲,全以本地搜購的材料和佳釀調合而成。

tents re­port­ing happy hours, in fact there’s no sig­nage at all. In­stead the bar­tenders and servers will quiz you on your tastes as part of Joseph’s cock­tail concierge ser­vice, to de­duce your per­sonal flavour pro­file and, ul­ti­mately, mix a made-to-or­der li­ba­tion just for you us­ing a se­lec­tion of lo­cally sourced in­gre­di­ents and craft spir­its.

How­ever, if you don’t know your Bom­bay Sap­phire from your Sip­smith, you needn’t worry as there’s a com­pact menu of cock­tails from which to or­der. For those with a weak­ness for dry mar­ti­nis, there is Luck be a Lady, a strong yet un­der­stated blend of Michter’s sin­gle-bar­rel rye with home­made French rose and goji berry syrup, car­damom bit­ters and a spray of Parisian ab­sinthe, gar­nished with a caramelised de­mer­ara cube, which can also be dis­solved in the drink to sweeten it if you so de­sire. Al­ter­na­tively, if you pre­fer your drinks al­ready on the honeyed side, try the cheek­ily named Sex Sells, a mix of sil­ver-in­fused three­is­land Caribbean rum, home­made but­ter­fly flower syrup, es­sen­tial oil of al­mond, fresh yel­low pep­per and lime topped with Ja­panese candy wool and sprin­kled with freeze-dried pump­kin. Fi­nally, dar­ing drinkers should sam­ple The Tur­ing Test, which is a su­gar-free blend of laven­der and ac­ti­vated char­coal Pol­ish bi­son grass vodka, house ste­via leaf and matcha tinc­ture, freshly-squeezed lemon, egg and An­gos­tura bit­ters, topped with a bonded spinach wafer. And which­ever of the tip­ples takes your fancy, one thing’s for cer­tain, you’ll find a rea­son to re­turn to J.Boroski’s to try an­other. //

可以放心的是,即使你不清楚心儀飲品的來源,雞尾酒小餐單仍會在場供應,方便點選。難以接受Dry Mar­tini嗎?Luck be a Lady味道也濃而混入Michter的單桶黑麥配自家製法式玫瑰和枸杞糖漿,還有豆蔻苦啤酒、巴黎苦艾酒,加上焦糖化金砂糖粒裝飾,加到飲料中即可增加甜味。另外也可試試Sex Sells,混合Sil­ver-in­fused Three-is­land Caribbean 酒、自家製蝴蝶花糖漿、杏仁精油、清新黃椒、青檸,再加日式綿花糖和急凍南瓜。最後一款挑戰味蕾的就是The Tur­ing Test,混合無糖薰衣草和Ac­ti­vated Char­coal Pol­ish Bi­son Grass伏特加、甜菊葉、抹茶酊、鮮榨檸檬、蛋和安古斯圖苦啤酒,再以菠菜薄餅作結。不管你口味如何,總有合心水選擇,要找原因再到J.Boroski一趟絕對不難。//

FLIR­TA­TIOUS FLAVOURS

J.Boroski’s Sex Sells is a heady mix of sil­ver­in­fused three-is­land Caribbean rum, home­made but­ter­fly flower syrup, es­sen­tial oil of al­mond, fresh yel­low pep­per and lime topped with Ja­panese candy wool and sprin­kled with freeze-dried pump­kin. Squeeze the pipette over the candy wool cube and watch it dis­ap­pear as the drink changes colour be­fore your very eyes.

誘人味道

J.Boroski的Sex Sell­s混合Sil­ver-in­fused Three­is­land Caribbean 酒、自家製蝴蝶花糖漿、杏仁精油、清新黃椒、青檸,再加日式綿花糖和急凍南瓜。擠一下綿花糖上的液管,即看到它慢慢溶解消失,飲品顏色亦會轉變。

PER­FECT DROP

Scarab bee­tles adorn the back wall be­hind the bar. The Sex Sells cock­tail post-trans­for­ma­tion. Luck be a Lady, a blend of rye, home­made syrup, bit­ters and ab­sinthe, gar­nished with a caramelised de­mer­ara cube.

完美一筆

酒吧後牆以甲蟲裝飾。Sex Sell­s轉色後的模樣。Luck be a Lady揉合單桶黑麥、自家製糖漿、苦啤酒和苦艾酒,

加上焦糖化金砂糖粒裝飾。

AD­VEN­TUR­OUS TASTES

The Tur­ing Test, a be­guil­ing, su­gar-free blend that errs of the savoury side of sweet but with a flo­ral flour­ish.

精緻品味

迷人的The Tur­ing Test以無糖混合材料減去鹹味,而同時帶花香。

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