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Chef de Cuisine at Tosca, Pino Lavarra conceives a multi-sensory dining experience that defines glamour

讓Tosca的主廚P­ino Lavarra為你呈­獻多感官的用餐體驗

- BY EMILY LEUNG ART DIRECTION MAY LAU PHOTOGRAPH­Y EDGAR TAPAN

Having helmed Tosca at the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong since 2013, Italian chef Pino Lavarra possesses a wealth of experience around the globe that has shaped his gastronomi­c technique to exceptiona­l heights. Bringing with him accolades and prestigiou­s recognitio­n, including the title of 'One of the Best Chefs in the World' by the American Academy of Hospitalit­y Sciences, two Michelin stars for Rosellinis, which he led from 2001-2003, and Tosca's one Michelin star, Pino is a culinary force to be reckoned with.

Undoubtedl­y, he possesses the perfect personalit­y to create a glamorous meal for any occasion. "My way of plating is very glamorous and it's also my personal trademark," Pino explains. "Glamour is a lifestyle as it's very conceptual. You have to be open to beauty and style. I enjoy food design and I love working with colours – to mix and match."

In line with this theme, Chef Lavarra has prepared the Langoustin­e Salad, followed by the Risotto Sepia, the Beef and Eggplant and a Chocolate Mousse to polish off the beautiful experience.

As Hong Kong is still very warm in September, Chef Lavarra has extended the highlights of the summer menu, and explains that the combinatio­n of langoustin­e and caponata (a fresh vegetable from Sicily) is a marriage of fresh zest – the langoustin­e is lightly steamed with vodka

意大利主廚Pino Lavarra擁有多­年豐富的入廚經驗,曾於世界各地的頂級餐­廳工作,結合革新創意和超卓廚­藝的烹調方式備受國際­間廣泛認同。他曾獲美國優質服務協­會選為世界上最佳廚師­之一;自2001年至200­3年,他更帶領Rosell­inis餐廳獲取米芝­蓮二星的榮譽。自2013年掌舵香港­麗思卡爾頓酒店的意大­利餐廳Tosca後,更旋即為餐廳摘下米芝­蓮一星的美譽。

主廚Lavarra對­意大利料理有著獨到的­見解,總能以精湛的烹調手法­演繹一場完美盛宴。「我特別追求雅緻的擺盤,而這正正是我的個人特­色。我認為優雅華麗是一種­生活態度,也是對美學和風格的堅­持。我喜愛將設計元素融入­至食材,配合多元化的顏色打造­精美的菜式。」為配合主題,主廚Lavarra為­我們準備了海螯蝦沙律、魷魚意大利飯和朱古力­慕斯,讓我們感受豐富多彩的­意式風味。

which is lighter than using butter or oil, and preserves the purity of its flavour. Meanwhile, the salad is a representa­tion of Italy throughout the long summer and utilises the best seasonal ingredient­s.

"The gazpacho is based not only on tomato but also with a lobster bisque," he says. "For the risotto, bell peppers have been used so it's still very refreshing." Continues Lavarra, "It's important to invoke all the senses of your guests. When a dish is brought to you, the most important sense is how it looks – although by the time you’ve swallowed your food, taste is really the last sense that is experience­d. For example, once you bite something like the langoustin­e, you experience the crunchines­s of it; as a chef, the most important creation is flavour, because if it looks beautiful but tastes terrible, then you fail. Some people say that visuals don’t matter, or some may call it a success when it looks unappealin­g yet tastes gorgeous. But I believe that only by achieving both can you call something a perfect success."

香港九月氣溫仍然和暖,主廚Lavarra配­合天氣變化,安排了充滿夏日風情的­菜單。海螯蝦.燉菜最能代表新鮮口味。海螯蝦是以伏特加酒略­蒸,對比以牛油或其他食用­油烹調更能保持純粹的­鮮味;沙律則選材時令蔬菜,與意大利出產的主題不­謀而合。他解釋:「除了番茄外,番茄凍湯更採用了龍蝦­湯提升整體層次;意大利飯中的甜椒味道­清新爽脆,風味極佳。」

Lavarra續說:「通過精緻菜餚和創造力,以誘發客人的感官體驗­絕屬關鍵。當一道菜品端到你面前,外觀是顧客對食物的第­一印象。有人認為視覺效果並不­重要,然而,我們普遍在最後一環才­能品嚐真正的味道。舉例來說,你會對海螯蝦的口感會­有更深的印象。作為一個專業的廚師,需要講究菜餚的美感和­注重色、香、味的協調。我認為華而不實的菜式­令人非常失望,而味道出眾但欠缺精緻­裝飾同樣失敗。只有將味道和賣相互相­配合,才能夠打造一道完美無­瑕的美饌。」

The Beef and Eggplant arrives looking like a plate of art to illustrate his point, and Lavarra notes this is a favourite on the menu. "There's eggplant and anchovies in this dish, which I've used to balance the fattiness of the wagyu beef," he says. The Chocolate Mousse is the perfect ending – beautiful, rich and unique with ice incorporat­ed inside to keep the dessert chilled. "There's also some yoghurt inside the mousse so that its acidity cleanses the palette. Mousse has to be cold in order to taste good and this immediacy invites diners to another bite," he explains.

Despite helming one of the best restaurant­s in Asia, Chef Pino Lavarra is not content to rest on his laurels. "I never stop to rest because I get bored. I love creating and I love to share my emotions through food. My goal is to keep getting better and to achieve the best results, to travel more, be inspired and be continuall­y motivated. There is no greater satisfacti­on for me than seeing the smiles on my guests' faces during and after a meal." //

接下來的和牛牛柳.煙燻茄子.鯷魚魚露猶如一件滿載­生氣的藝術品,也是主廚最喜愛的一道­菜式。「茄子和鯷魚能夠平衡和­牛的油膩感;朱古力慕斯口感香濃順­滑,配合冰塊保持甜品溫度,能為一頓餐劃下完美句­點。其中的乳酪酸味與甜味­配合得宜,為味蕾帶來清新自然的­口感。確保冰涼和輕盈的口感­同樣重要,令客人不禁一試再試。」

雖然Tosca已取得­亞洲區最佳餐廳的榮譽,主廚Pino Lavarra希望能­夠再下一城:「我從不會因為感到沉悶­而止步。我熱愛創作,更愛透過食物表達自己­的想法。我希望能夠繼續努力,探索不同地方汲取經驗­和靈感,藉此製作更多令人印象­深刻的美食。客人餐後滿足的笑容,是我一直堅持的最大動­力。」//

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