Chef de Cui­sine at Tosca, Pino Lavarra con­ceives a multi-sen­sory din­ing experience that de­fines glam­our

讓Tosca的主廚Pino Lavar­ra為你呈獻多感官的用餐體驗

Home Journal - - CONTENTS - BY EMILY LEUNG ART DI­REC­TION MAY LAU PHO­TOG­RA­PHY EDGAR TA­PAN

Having helmed Tosca at the Ritz Carl­ton Hong Kong since 2013, Ital­ian chef Pino Lavarra pos­sesses a wealth of experience around the globe that has shaped his gas­tro­nomic tech­nique to ex­cep­tional heights. Bring­ing with him ac­co­lades and pres­ti­gious recog­ni­tion, in­clud­ing the ti­tle of 'One of the Best Chefs in the World' by the Amer­i­can Academy of Hos­pi­tal­ity Sci­ences, two Miche­lin stars for Roselli­nis, which he led from 2001-2003, and Tosca's one Miche­lin star, Pino is a culi­nary force to be reck­oned with.

Un­doubt­edly, he pos­sesses the per­fect per­son­al­ity to cre­ate a glam­orous meal for any oc­ca­sion. "My way of plat­ing is very glam­orous and it's also my per­sonal trade­mark," Pino ex­plains. "Glam­our is a life­style as it's very con­cep­tual. You have to be open to beauty and style. I en­joy food design and I love work­ing with colours – to mix and match."

In line with this theme, Chef Lavarra has pre­pared the Lan­gous­tine Salad, fol­lowed by the Risotto Sepia, the Beef and Egg­plant and a Cho­co­late Mousse to pol­ish off the beau­ti­ful experience.

As Hong Kong is still very warm in Septem­ber, Chef Lavarra has ex­tended the high­lights of the sum­mer menu, and ex­plains that the com­bi­na­tion of lan­gous­tine and caponata (a fresh veg­etable from Si­cily) is a mar­riage of fresh zest – the lan­gous­tine is lightly steamed with vodka

意大利主廚Pino Lavar­ra擁有多年豐富的入廚經驗,曾於世界各地的頂級餐廳工作,結合革新創意和超卓廚藝的烹調方式備受國際間廣泛認同。他曾獲美國優質服務協會選為世界上最佳廚師之一;自2001年至2003年,他更帶領Rosellinis餐廳獲取米芝蓮二星的榮譽。自2013年掌舵香港麗思卡爾頓酒店的意大利餐廳Tosca後,更旋即為餐廳摘下米芝蓮一星的美譽。

主廚Lavar­ra對意大利料理有著獨到的見解,總能以精湛的烹調手法演繹一場完美盛宴。「我特別追求雅緻的擺盤,而這正正是我的個人特色。我認為優雅華麗是一種生活態度,也是對美學和風格的堅持。我喜愛將設計元素融入至食材,配合多元化的顏色打造精美的菜式。」為配合主題,主廚Lavar­ra為我們準備了海螯蝦沙律、魷魚意大利飯和朱古力慕斯,讓我們感受豐富多彩的意式風味。

which is lighter than us­ing but­ter or oil, and pre­serves the pu­rity of its flavour. Mean­while, the salad is a rep­re­sen­ta­tion of Italy through­out the long sum­mer and utilises the best sea­sonal in­gre­di­ents.

"The gaz­pa­cho is based not only on tomato but also with a lob­ster bisque," he says. "For the risotto, bell pep­pers have been used so it's still very re­fresh­ing." Con­tin­ues Lavarra, "It's im­por­tant to in­voke all the senses of your guests. When a dish is brought to you, the most im­por­tant sense is how it looks – al­though by the time you’ve swal­lowed your food, taste is re­ally the last sense that is ex­pe­ri­enced. For ex­am­ple, once you bite some­thing like the lan­gous­tine, you experience the crunch­i­ness of it; as a chef, the most im­por­tant cre­ation is flavour, be­cause if it looks beau­ti­ful but tastes ter­ri­ble, then you fail. Some peo­ple say that vi­su­als don’t mat­ter, or some may call it a suc­cess when it looks un­ap­peal­ing yet tastes gor­geous. But I be­lieve that only by achiev­ing both can you call some­thing a per­fect suc­cess."

香港九月氣溫仍然和暖,主廚Lavar­ra配合天氣變化,安排了充滿夏日風情的菜單。海螯蝦.燉菜最能代表新鮮口味。海螯蝦是以伏特加酒略蒸,對比以牛油或其他食用油烹調更能保持純粹的鮮味;沙律則選材時令蔬菜,與意大利出產的主題不謀而合。他解釋:「除了番茄外,番茄凍湯更採用了龍蝦湯提升整體層次;意大利飯中的甜椒味道清新爽脆,風味極佳。」

Lavar­ra續說:「通過精緻菜餚和創造力,以誘發客人的感官體驗絕屬關鍵。當一道菜品端到你面前,外觀是顧客對食物的第一印象。有人認為視覺效果並不重要,然而,我們普遍在最後一環才能品嚐真正的味道。舉例來說,你會對海螯蝦的口感會有更深的印象。作為一個專業的廚師,需要講究菜餚的美感和注重色、香、味的協調。我認為華而不實的菜式令人非常失望,而味道出眾但欠缺精緻裝飾同樣失敗。只有將味道和賣相互相配合,才能夠打造一道完美無瑕的美饌。」

The Beef and Egg­plant ar­rives look­ing like a plate of art to il­lus­trate his point, and Lavarra notes this is a favourite on the menu. "There's egg­plant and an­chovies in this dish, which I've used to bal­ance the fat­ti­ness of the wagyu beef," he says. The Cho­co­late Mousse is the per­fect end­ing – beau­ti­ful, rich and unique with ice in­cor­po­rated in­side to keep the dessert chilled. "There's also some yo­ghurt in­side the mousse so that its acid­ity cleanses the palette. Mousse has to be cold in or­der to taste good and this im­me­di­acy in­vites din­ers to an­other bite," he ex­plains.

De­spite helm­ing one of the best restau­rants in Asia, Chef Pino Lavarra is not con­tent to rest on his lau­rels. "I never stop to rest be­cause I get bored. I love cre­at­ing and I love to share my emo­tions through food. My goal is to keep get­ting bet­ter and to achieve the best re­sults, to travel more, be in­spired and be con­tin­u­ally mo­ti­vated. There is no greater sat­is­fac­tion for me than see­ing the smiles on my guests' faces dur­ing and af­ter a meal." //

接下來的和牛牛柳.煙燻茄子.鯷魚魚露猶如一件滿載生氣的藝術品,也是主廚最喜愛的一道菜式。「茄子和鯷魚能夠平衡和牛的油膩感;朱古力慕斯口感香濃順滑,配合冰塊保持甜品溫度,能為一頓餐劃下完美句點。其中的乳酪酸味與甜味配合得宜,為味蕾帶來清新自然的口感。確保冰涼和輕盈的口感同樣重要,令客人不禁一試再試。」

雖然Tosca已取得亞洲區最佳餐廳的榮譽,主廚Pino Lavar­ra希望能夠再下一城:「我從不會因為感到沉悶而止步。我熱愛創作,更愛透過食物表達自己的想法。我希望能夠繼續努力,探索不同地方汲取經驗和靈感,藉此製作更多令人印象深刻的美食。客人餐後滿足的笑容,是我一直堅持的最大動力。」//

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