Shinji by Kanesaka
he setting is austere, but the spirit of Shinji by Kanesaka is found—and felt—in the details. Framed high above the entrance to the kitchen is a phrase swept out in evocative calligraphy; roughly translated, it is clearly a reference to the way of the most skilled sushi chefs: “Through a single press, the spirit of the object comes alive.” As we watch the graceful movements of itamae and chef de cuisine Toru Osumi behind the bar, the significance of those four simple kanji is brought into sharp relief.
Despite his youth (at age 34), Osumi brings with him more t han a decade’s worth of experience, having worked for Shinji Kanesaka i n both the original Ginza restaurant as well as t he second outpost in Singapore. Here in Macau, his profound dedication t o t he art of sushi i s a welcome, sobering respite fr om the