Shinji by Kane­saka

Hong Kong Tatler Best Restaurants (Hong Kong / Macau) - - Editor’s choice -

he set­ting is aus­tere, but the spirit of Shinji by Kane­saka is found—and felt—in the de­tails. Framed high above the en­trance to the kitchen is a phrase swept out in evoca­tive cal­lig­ra­phy; roughly trans­lated, it is clearly a ref­er­ence to the way of the most skilled sushi chefs: “Through a sin­gle press, the spirit of the ob­ject comes alive.” As we watch the grace­ful move­ments of ita­mae and chef de cui­sine Toru Osumi be­hind the bar, the sig­nif­i­cance of those four sim­ple kanji is brought into sharp relief.

De­spite his youth (at age 34), Osumi brings with him more t han a decade’s worth of ex­pe­ri­ence, hav­ing worked for Shinji Kane­saka i n both the orig­i­nal Ginza restau­rant as well as t he sec­ond out­post in Sin­ga­pore. Here in Ma­cau, his pro­found ded­i­ca­tion t o t he art of sushi i s a wel­come, sober­ing respite fr om the

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