The theme for hair this season was total style insouciance— minimum effort for maximum effect. Backstage at Anthony Vaccarello, L’oréal Professionnel hair- styling ambassador Anthony Turner tucked long swathes of air- dried hair into high- collared coats and summed up the woman of the season: “She doesn’t even think about her hair.” For most of us, such styling abandon may be more suited to the summer, but there were plenty of real- world, winter- ready iterations. At Chloé, Mary Katrantzou, Isabel Marant and Louis Vuitton, waves were worn- in, curls fallen- out and blow- dries allowed to drop, as though styled and then slept on, in order to create a real- hair sensibility.
Additional structure was made via simple yet severe partings. Here, the designers were themselves divided. At Stella Mccartney, Balmain and Alberta Ferretti, hair was parted dead- centre, before being smoothed out over the head and left to fall in long curtains or pulled back into nape- of- the- neck ponytails. On the other side of the styling split, partings were shallow, chic and side- stepped at Tom Ford, deep and slicked to the head at Holly Fulton and feminine and pretty at Chloé. The severity of side- partings continued across Gucci, Rodarte and Alexander Wang, where they were swept across models’ foreheads. The ballerina bun was found in numerous shows: at Diane von Furstenberg, Orlando Pita pulled hair into a high pony, coiled it around the base, then gently undid parts of it, as though it had been worn by “a dancer in rehearsal, not performance,” says Pita. From there, ballerina buns took on unique permutations: Prada’s ballerina buns, for example, were performance- ready. Sleek and high shine, Erdem’s were twisted with strands left long and loose. Carolina Herrera’s sat high on the crown, while Dolce & Gabbana’s involved a pretty braid twisted up into a chignon for a romantically ornate approach. At Jean Paul Gaultier, models sported high- rise structural versions that were determined by the length of their hair.
GET THE LOOK FOLLOW GAULTIER’S LEAD AND LET YOUR HAIR’S NATURAL LENGTH AND TEXTURE DECIDE THE SHAPE AND FEEL OF YOUR BUN. SIMPLY SECURE YOUR HAIR IN A PONY, TWIST LENGTHS OF HAIR AROUND THE PONY’S BASE, PIN AND SECURE WITH A LIGHT SPRITZ OF HAIR SPRAY.
1 CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: CHLOÉ; ALBERTA FERETTI; KÉRASTASE SPRAY A PORTER; SACHAJUAN OCEAN MIST; SHU UEMURA PADDLE BRUSH; SHU UEMURA DETAIL MASTER FIXING SPRAY; BUMBLE AND BUMBLE CITY SWEPT FINISHING SPRAY