In­cred­i­ble Me­chan­ics

ROGER DUBUIS PAYS TRIB­UTE TO ITS FOUNDER WITH THE UN­VEIL­ING OF THE HOM­MAGE MINUTE RE­PEATER TOUR­BIL­LON AU­TO­MATIC AT THIS YEAR’S WATCHES & WON­DERS

Hong Kong Tatler - - Tatler Focus Roger Dubuis -

Be­ing the only watch­mak­ing brand to have ev­ery sin­gle time­piece bear­ing the Poinçon de Genève, Roger Dubuis has never failed to sat­isfy the grow­ing ap­petite of en­thu­si­as­tic watch con­nois­seurs for almost two decades. At Watches & Won­ders, the man­u­fac­ture un­veiled a stun­ning ad­di­tion to its Hom­mage col­lec­tion, the Hom­mage Minute Re­peater Tour­bil­lon Au­to­matic, a high-com­pli­ca­tion watch that com­bines im­pres­sive tech­ni­cal com­plex­ity and aes­thetic ap­peal.

Tech­ni­cally, the move­ment of the Hom­mage Minute Re­peater shows its so­phis­ti­ca­tion, car­ry­ing two main fea­tures that have be­come Roger Dubuis trade­marks: au­to­matic wind­ing via a dis­tinc­tive dou­ble mi­cro-ro­tor that en­sures op­ti­mal wind­ing per­for­mance; as well as a fly­ing tour­bil­lon in a new car­riage which guar­an­tees op­ti­mal in­er­tia, equi­lib­rium and anti-shock pro­tec­tion.

The new ex­clu­sive RD104 cal­i­bre re­quires 1,241 hours to pro­duce, 328 of which are ded­i­cated to meet­ing the strin­gent Poinçon de Genève cri­te­ria. The in­tri­cacy of the move­ment is ex­posed for

ad­mi­ra­tion through a sap­phire crys­tal case back.

Aes­thet­i­cally, the watch faith­fully bears the dis­tinc­tive traits of the Hom­mage col­lec­tion with its em­blem­atic leaf-type hands, hand-ap­plied Ro­man nu­mer­als, broad pol­ished con­cave bezel and sun­ray hand-guil­loché mo­tif. The whole time­piece glows in pink gold ra­di­at­ing from its case, lugs, crown, to its match­ing plat­ing on the cen­tral dial. The spec­tac­u­lar minute re­peater is not cov­ered but high­lighted along the pe­riph­eral of the dial, to al­low one to not only en­joy the clar­ity of the sound of the gongs but also to be able to have a clear view of the parts in mo­tion when the strik­ing mech­a­nism is in op­er­a­tion.

The wearer’s sense of touch is also flat­tered, with the ribbed crown en­sur­ing a bet­ter grip while off­set­ting the satin-brushed case mid­dle and the broad pol­ished bezel that is a hall­mark of the Hom­mage col­lec­tion. The decision to ac­ti­vate the strik­ing mech­a­nism via a tra­di­tional re­peater slide, rather than a push­but­ton as is gen­er­ally used th­ese days, is to guar­an­tee wa­ter re­sis­tance and en­sure the move­ment is duly sealed off from dust and wa­ter.

Orig­i­nally launched in the same year of the company’s found­ing in 1995, the Hom­mage col­lec­tion pays trib­ute to gen­er­a­tions of watch­mak­ers, in­clud­ing the brand’s founder, Roger Dubuis. In­tro­duced in white and pink gold only, the col­lec­tion will only ever be is­sued in noble met­als be­fit­ting the in­tri­ca­cies of the mech­a­nism show­cased within the time­pieces.

The Hom­mage Minute Re­peater Tour­bil­lon is is­sued in a 20-piece limited edi­tion to cel­e­brate the man­u­fac­ture’s 20th an­niver­sary next year, 2015.

Roger Dubuis has been lead­ing the world of con­tem­po­rary haute hor­logerie since its de­but year. Its dar­ing cre­ations, while mod­ern, bear the mark and ex­per­tise of the finest watch­mak­ing tra­di­tions. Bold­ness and ex­trav­a­gance are the brand’s sig­na­tures.

Rich in con­cep­tual cre­ativ­ity and me­chan­i­cal de­tail, the brand’s popular col­lec­tions in­clude Ex­cal­ibur and Vel­vet.

ROGER DUBUIS HOM­MAGE MINUTE RE­PEATER TOUR­BIL­LON AU­TO­MATIC

FROM TOP: THE ROGER DUBUIS BOOTH AT WATCHES & WON­DERS 2014; THE RD104 MOVE­MENT; A POR­TRAIT OF WATCH­MAKER ROGER DUBUIS

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