Blend­ing Magic

Hong Kong Tatler - - News -

Cham­pagne Hen­riot, fam­ily owned since 1808, is re­leas­ing a spe­cial cu­vée after more than two decades of re­search. In 1990, Joseph Hen­riot—whose son, Thomas, is now Ceo—iso­lated a large vat of 100 per cent chardonnay from the best vine­yards of the Côte des Blancs area. Each year, a pro­por­tion of the wine is re­placed with the quin­tes­sence of the new vin­tage, and part of this be­comes a spe­cial Cham­pagne. The Hen­riot Cham­pagne Blanc de Blancs Cuve 38 La Réserve Per­pétuelle—or sim­ply “Cuve 38”—is named for the vat num­ber in the win­ery’s cel­lar. Upon tast­ing, I found it ex­tremely rich and pow­er­ful, much like a top white Bur­gundy such as a Cor­tonCharle­magne, but with the fresh­ness and tex­ture of a fine Cham­pagne. It shows rich and in­tense fruit character with bread dough and pie crust un­der­tones. There’s a phe­no­lic tex­ture that makes it silky. Only 1,000 mag­nums are pro­duced each year. 97 POINTS

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