The Light­ness of Be­ing

BRI­TISH DESIGNER JONATHAN AN­DER­SON’S DE­BUT COL­LEC­TION FOR LOEWE MARKS A RE­TURN TO THE MAI­SON’S ROOTS IN RE­FINED AND EX­CEP­TIONAL LEATHER PIECES

Hong Kong Tatler - - Radar -

To say Jonathan An­der­son’s in­au­gu­ral wom­enswear col­lec­tion for the Span­ish ate­lier was highly an­tic­i­pated would be a big un­der­state­ment. The newly ap­pointed cre­ative direc­tor teased fash­ion afi­ciona­dos with a re­design of the Loewe logo, a cam­paign de­pict­ing ac­ces­sories next to vin­tage Steven Meisel images, a stel­lar new menswear col­lec­tion and a rein­tro­duc­tion of the house’s most recog­nis­able bags, the Ama­zona and the Fla­menco—and this was all done be­fore the rev­e­la­tion of his women’s ready-to-wear col­lec­tion.

A so­phis­ti­cated sense of ease and soft­ness was in­jected into the col­lec­tion, as the clothes, in the house’s sig­na­ture leather (crafted, wo­ven or dyed), were pieced to­gether in a strik­ingly mod­ern treat­ment. Loose-fit­ting, wo­ven linens and raw silks also in­cor­po­rated an ad­di­tional sense of tac­til­ity and flu­id­ity. A mo­tif through­out the show was leather trousers—baggy, slung just be­low the navel and fas­tened with an obi belt.

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