TRULY OR­NATE

Hong Kong Tatler - - Watches -

glass discs, it is the first time Patek Philippe has ren­dered a moon so real­is­ti­cally, and po­si­tion­ing it at the cen­tre of the dial adds to its dis­tinc­tive­ness. The brand new 240 HU LU cal­i­bre was specif­i­cally de­signed to merge the world time and moon phase func­tions, and is rel­a­tively com­pact in both the men’s and women’s mod­els.

The Grand­mas­ter Chime is one of 2014’s most out­stand­ing pieces. It’s the end re­sult of years of de­sign and ex­e­cu­tion, and is touted as Patek Philippe’s most com­pli­cated watch ever. The dou­ble-face watch, a first for the brand, is made pos­si­ble by a unique re­vers­ing mech­a­nism on its lugs. The 18K rose gold case is deftly chis­elled by hand, re­sult­ing in a bezel fea­tur­ing an in­tri­cate cir­cu­lar lau­rel wreath with coin-edge rib­bing wrap­ping around its bor­der. The time and date are shown on both di­als, with one de­voted to cur­rent time and the son­nerie func­tion, and the other a per­pet­ual cal­en­dar. The for­mer in­di­cates hours and min­utes, a sec­ond time zone, alarm time, ana­logue per­pet­ual date, moon phases, power re­serve, crown po­si­tion in­di­ca­tor, among other func­tions. Flip the case and you will see a 24-hour and minute sub-dial, a four-digit year dis­play, and three cal­en­dar sub-di­als with ana­logue in­di­ca­tions for the day, month, date and leap-year cy­cle. The Grand­mas­ter Chime is un­ques­tion­ably a true marvel in the watch­mak­ing world. Just one has been built so far out of a to­tal of seven, and one of them will end up in the Patek Philippe Mu­seum.

High­light­ing the im­por­tance of this an­niver­sary is that all the cal­i­bres, in­clud­ing the one for the Grand­mas­ter Chime, are be­ing pro­duced only for the 175th an­niver­sary col­lec­tion, mak­ing each piece a true col­lec­tor’s item. The grand cel­e­bra­tion may fade into the past, but the watches will re­main as a record of the his­tory and crafts­man­ship on which Patek Philippe has been built—a record that will en­dure for years to come.

THE GRAND­MAS­TER CHIME’S 18K ROSE GOLD CASE IS CHIS­ELLED BY HAND

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